My Vera 3 arrived yesterday, and this is my very first attempt into Home Automation project, of which adding Z-Wave switches to my living room is one of them.
I have been using Lutron AuroRA remote switches since two years now, and have been fairly satisfied with them (except of the fact they cannot be used by third party remote).
I am not much of an electrician, and will be taking some help from a licensed electrical contractor to install the switches. But before that, i would like to place orders for Z-Wave switches that is compatible with my existing wiring.
I am adding few pictures of two locations in my house, the main living room and the second hallway. Kindly look into this carefully, and let me know so as to what is suitable for me. I realize GE switches require additional wiring, and Leviton would’nt, however i am open to both, I would like to add scene capable dimmable and less hassle free for my living room, and dimmable 3-way zwave capable switches for hallway.
Living room (this is a two gang box, three lights in one switch, and five lights on second switch i a room of 8 incandescent lights).
I think you’ll be ok with GE switches. What is needed is Hot, Ground, and Common. I think I see that you have white commons in each box, and I can only assume that since the boxes are steel that the conduit is steel also that it is transmitting your ground back to the main box. It also looks like fairly new wiring, so it should be up to NEC codes. But I would still make sure that you were getting sufficient ground back to the switch box, and confirm for certain that the white wires are indeed Commons. A volt/ohm meter in the hands of a skilled operator is a powerful tool!hehe
As far as specific features of the switches themselves I can’t help you much. I have a GE dimmer on an outdoor light and a GE 3 way On/Off in my living room. Neither are scene capable.
P.S.
You might also want to check the forums here. I seem to remember seeing something about some Zwave switches having trouble transmitting out of Steel boxes.
[quote=“mundyb, post:3, topic:170714”]P.S.
You might also want to check the forums here. I seem to remember seeing something about some Zwave switches having trouble transmitting out of Steel boxes.[/quote]
That would be a concern… As far as the GE switches go I have lots of them and could never get the 3-way to work. I understand there are new ones out there so make sure you get the kind that have screws not leads coming out the back.
[quote=“aschwalb, post:4, topic:170714”][quote=“mundyb, post:3, topic:170714”]P.S.
You might also want to check the forums here. I seem to remember seeing something about some Zwave switches having trouble transmitting out of Steel boxes.[/quote]
That would be a concern… As far as the GE switches go I have lots of them and could never get the 3-way to work. I understand there are new ones out there so make sure you get the kind that have screws not leads coming out the back.[/quote]
I’ll be happy if you can point out both the newer GE models for 2 way and 3 way switch that can work for my steel boxes.
So i guess Leviton will work in this steel boxes right? I plan to install two of levitons switches specially for creating scenes.
Guys i have a few more questions here.
I would like to install 2 GE switches as well around the entry way area. Will i be able to program the GE switches in a way that as soon as the doors are opened using the Kwikset Zwave locks, the entry way lights turn up? I believe GE are not scene capable, but can this be done through vera?
In general, a metal switch box is going to restrict the amount, and direction, of the RF communications from the devices (excluding reflection).
Z-Wave is a mesh network and it [generally] works better with more inter-node connectivity. The metal boxes will place yet-another barrier on that connectivity, along with Solid/Brick walls, Concrete Floors etc. You’ll probably find it harder to get things to see each other and form that mesh, and things “at distance” from Vera will likely be harder to get good connectivity to, since the intermediate hops will be harder to come by (until the network is large)
[quote=“Exorcist, post:5, topic:170714”][quote=“aschwalb, post:4, topic:170714”][quote=“mundyb, post:3, topic:170714”]P.S.
You might also want to check the forums here. I seem to remember seeing something about some Zwave switches having trouble transmitting out of Steel boxes.[/quote]
That would be a concern… As far as the GE switches go I have lots of them and could never get the 3-way to work. I understand there are new ones out there so make sure you get the kind that have screws not leads coming out the back.[/quote]
I’ll be happy if you can point out both the newer GE models for 2 way and 3 way switch that can work for my steel boxes.
So i guess Leviton will work in this steel boxes right? I plan to install two of levitons switches specially for creating scenes.
Guys i have a few more questions here.
I would like to install 2 GE switches as well around the entry way area. Will i be able to program the GE switches in a way that as soon as the doors are opened using the Kwikset Zwave locks, the entry way lights turn up? I believe GE are not scene capable, but can this be done through vera?[/quote]
To be clear the metal boxes (as @guessed pointed out) are an issue for any zwave switch since the RF is going to be muted. As far as the GE switches that work for 3-way I am not sure of the newer model number maybe someone else knows this. As to you question on the locks, yes if you create a scene in Vera with a trigger for the lock unlocked then it can turn on the lights (any of your selection of lights)
[quote=“guessed, post:6, topic:170714”]In general, a metal switch box is going to restrict the amount, and direction, of the RF communications from the devices (excluding reflection).
Z-Wave is a mesh network and it [generally] works better with more inter-node connectivity. The metal boxes will place yet-another barrier on that connectivity, along with Solid/Brick walls, Concrete Floors etc. You’ll probably find it harder to get things to see each other and form that mesh, and things “at distance” from Vera will likely be harder to get good connectivity to, since the intermediate hops will be harder to come by (until the network is large)[/quote]
Good explanation. Though i read a lot on this forum, but i think i missed this part abt the metal boxes. All of the switches that i plan to install are within 10 ft of the vera 3 controller. Will it be good be ok? In the future when we buy a new bigger home, i will make sure that all the switch boxes are non-metal, and pious to Z-wave/RF frequency.
@Exorcist,
How well, and whether, it will work will be totally environment specific.
It’s not possible to give a definitive yes or no answer here and you’ll likely have to try it to really know. Even in environments where there are no observable barriers, people have issues so adding more [known] barriers just makes the mesh less effective.
…it’s like putting your Cell phone into a [Metal] filing cabinet, and partially closing the door. It might work, it might not, but you’ll definitely decrease the radio reception… 8)
[quote=“Exorcist, post:8, topic:170714”][quote=“guessed, post:6, topic:170714”]In general, a metal switch box is going to restrict the amount, and direction, of the RF communications from the devices (excluding reflection).
Z-Wave is a mesh network and it [generally] works better with more inter-node connectivity. The metal boxes will place yet-another barrier on that connectivity, along with Solid/Brick walls, Concrete Floors etc. You’ll probably find it harder to get things to see each other and form that mesh, and things “at distance” from Vera will likely be harder to get good connectivity to, since the intermediate hops will be harder to come by (until the network is large)[/quote]
Good explanation. Though i read a lot on this forum, but i think i missed this part abt the metal boxes. All of the switches that i plan to install are within 10 ft of the vera 3 controller. Will it be good be ok? In the future when we buy a new bigger home, i will make sure that all the switch boxes are non-metal, and pious to Z-wave/RF frequency.[/quote]
Thanks for your all your replies, I have placed orders for 6 of Leviton VRI06-1LZ Vizia RF + 600W. It should arrive on Saturday. I hope they are one of the most reliable ones out there. ???
I will try to set them tomorrow with the Vera3 controller. However i will need help to create scenes, and making it more geeky.
Let me first try to do the basic zwave setup. Will post back results.
Oh yea, and I also have placed orders for GE 3-Way switches for my hallway.
Just wanted to add an update here. I have successfully installed the VRI06-1LZ switch, and i guess cos the vera 3 controller is just 10-12 ft away from the switches, they work fine inside the metal gang boxes. I still have to install the 3 way GE switches in the hallway… will post back if i have issues. Thanks all for the suggestions and replies.
The next plan of action is to integrate scenes with lights on motion and nightlight detection, along with alarm systems.
Guys, a quick question here.
I have the Leviton VRI06 switch integrated with Vera, can this switch be controlled with a logitech Harmony 1100 remote for scenes? I am also using the RF extender with the remote. I would like to setup scenes for the home theater, as in when turning on the A/V gear with the Harmony 1100 remote and the lights turn off.
I also use Acoustic Research ARRX18G XSight remote, anyone using this with the switches?
I have had issues with Z-wave switches in metal boxes. Wiremold makes a plastic surface mount box that works well as a box extension, comes in two depths,maybe 1 1/4" and 2". These extensions get the switch out where they work much better. These also work well when there isn’t enough room in the existing boxes, some devices are rather large. It’s a quicker option than replacing the boxes,and look like an overgrown wallwart when done. Byron
I am trying to install the zwave GE 3 Way switch in my hallway.
Replacing my old lutron dimmer switches with these.
I have managed to wire the main GE 3-way switch. However confused with the wiring of GE auxiliary switch.
The existing Lutron auxiliary switch has three wires attached to it.
And the GE-Auxiliary switch only has two connection options.
Looking at the second image, there are three wires on the old switch, if i have to wire these on the ge auxiliary that is the third image which has only two screws, what should be my approach?
Sorry to bump this thread again. Need help in getting up the wires on the switches, as they are all dangling out in the open risking others an electric shock.
never seen this kinda wiring but it seems traveler goes on traveler and the neutral goes on whatever is live-wire from the main electricity box.
its like this : neutral (blue in europe, 0 volt wire) goes to the light and the life (brown wire, +220volt) goes to the input of the switch and the black (+220v switched) goes to the light.
this device should go between the live wire
edit: looks like things are reversed over there in you homeland and the neutral is being the wire that is switched.
so i guess load should go on neutral ?
Can you describe your current wiring; a diagram is best. Besides the connection between the boxes, it is important to know where the light is connected and where power is coming in.
Do you currently have the GE primary hooked-up, together with the Lutron aux switch? The Lutron is a traditional switch, right?
Can you describe your current wiring; a diagram is best. Besides the connection between the boxes, it is important to know where the light is connected and where power is coming in.
Do you currently have the GE primary hooked-up, together with the Lutron aux switch? The Lutron is a traditional switch, right?[/quote]
Thanks for your reply.
Reposting the thread i posted yesterday, pictures with the wiring.
I am trying to install the zwave GE 3 Way switch in my hallway.
Replacing my old lutron dimmer switches with these.
I have managed to wire the main GE 3-way switch. However confused with the wiring of GE auxiliary switch.
The existing Lutron auxiliary switch has three wires attached to it.
And the GE-Auxiliary switch only has two connection options.
Looking at the second image, there are three wires on the old switch, if i have to wire these on the ge auxiliary that is the third image which has only two screws, what should be my approach?
Right; that’s what I had looked at. But the point was that there is not enough information there. You’ll have to describe how you believe things are currently wired, including where the power is coming in, and where the light is connected. And there were some additional questions probing for that a different way.
Otherwise, things will be guess work: the black is not part of a cable with say a white / neutral? The two blues are going to the other switch? The yellow is connected to the light? Switching the aux, still switches the light? No neutral in the aux box (either)?
