When I first got my Zwave network up and running about a year ago, the members of this forum suggested I get comfortable with normal 2-way/single pole switch installation before diving into 3-way switch installation. Since then, I have had no issues installing 8+ 2-way GE and Linear zwave switches, thermostat, sensors, scene controllers, IP cameras, etc. I’m ready to tackle my next project which I’m hoping to be fairly easy.
In my main room, the lighting is controlled by two switches (3-way/slave) and I’ve installed LED dimmable BR40 bulbs. Both switches have neutral wire configuration. I’d like to think it’d just be as easy as buying a 3-way dimmable and slave switch, however I am a little overwhelmed as far as which switches to exactly purchase. Could anyone recommend a good set of switches they might recommend?
Also, could someone comment on what Instant Status means? I understand only GE lacks this but Leviton and Cooper have this in their switches. What exactly is it? I struck out with google
Instant Status is a feature where when the state of the switch changes, such as someone manually turned the light on, the switch immediately notifies the Z-Wave controller(Vera) of the state change. Without Instant Status, the controller will not be aware of the state change until it next polls the switch, which could be as long as a couple of minutes.
Under basic use, this is not important. It doesn’t matter of the GUI on the controller doesn’t correctly indicate the state of the light for a minute or two. But, if you are using the state of the light as a trigger for a scene or other condition, then Instant Status becomes very important.
Let’s say that you have setup a scene that when you turn on the light, the scene is triggered and it turns on a Z-Wave lamp module. Without Instant Status, that lamp module may not get turned on for a minute or two. With Instant Status, the lamp module gets turned on the moment that you press the switch.
In most cases, switches are not used as triggers, so Instant Status is not important. But if you want to use the switch as a scene trigger, it is imperative.
The precise wiring method will depend on which brand of switch you choose. The following dimmers are all good, but only the Leviton and Cooper have Instant Status.
Thanks! This is all very helpful information. I probably won’t need Instant Status however I do like how the Linera switches have dimmer capability directly on the switch.
P.S. you were the one who specifically told me not to attempt 3-way when I first got involved with Z-wave
[quote=“bbohannon, post:4, topic:189564”]Thanks! This is all very helpful information. I probably won’t need Instant Status however I do like how the Linera switches have dimmer capability directly on the switch.[/quote]I don’t know what you mean by this. The GE and Linear switches appear and behave in basically the same manner.
P.S. you were the one who specifically told me not to attempt 3-way when I first got involved with Z-wave :)
I don't remember it, but I was probably referring to the wiring "complexities", more than Z-Wave.
So my Linear 3-way switches (mentioned above) arrived today and naturally I’m having difficulty with the wiring. Can’t seem to control lighting at all. See below
For the slave/aux switch, I have wired the ground to green and neutral to white. I’ve also wired the black line wire to black on the switch (this was the wire on the black screw nut on the original switch). There are two extra wires unused in this configuration: 1) red traveler which I believe is not necessary with this switch as 3-way will be controlled via z-wave 2) and another black which I think is the black ‘common’ wire. The Status LED is on when power supplied so I think I at least got the power/ground wire correctly.
For the main 3-way dimmer switch, I also have wired ground to green and neutral to white. I attached Blue to the red traveler and black line to black on the switch. I have one extra wire in this configuration which I believe to be the black ‘common wire.’ The status LED is NOT ON (something obviously wired wrong) and the loap trip button is pushed in (or whatever it’s called).
I can see some problems immediately with capped Blacks and connected Red. I think that you have a circuit like this one but I am only guessing and I could be very wrong.
I can’t accurately tell from your pictures or description which wire is which. You need to positively identify which Black is Line and which Black is Load. (You should positively identify all wires.) After you have positively identified the Line and Load, then see the attached diagrams for how to connect the switches. The diagrams assume that my guess about your circuit type is correct. If you find that your circuit is different then these diagrams are not applicable.
Thanks so much for the help. I’ll give the above a try once I’m home.
Here’s a dumb question. Do both switches have to be on the same neutral wire? I have two sets of bound neutral wires in the junction box I have the main 3-way switch
To clarify, each switch should use the same neutral that comes in with the Line used by that switch. Since it is possible for these Linears to be on separate circuits, there may be cases where they use different Neutrals.
In both of the diagrams that I provided, both switches use the same Line so they should share the same Neutral.
Another dumb question if you don’t mind. Does it matter which junction box the slave and master switch go into? I assumed there wasn’t and currently have installed the master dimmer switch in the larger of the two junction boxes
I don’t have Liner I have GE switches so this may or may not apply to you.
Short answer is doesn’t matter which goes where.
On the GE’s the AUX switch doesn’t have a LED on it only the Master. So that’s a personal thing. I usually keep the master in the box with other switches that all have lights and put the one without the LED in the single gang box by itself.
Other thing, on the GE the AUX switch can take minutes to update it’s status to vera when you turn on and off the light from the AUX switch. The main switch works as if you have instant status. So if you ever have a scene or other things tied to that light and you use the AUX switch it will not report very quickly. Another reason I put this switch in the must unused place.
[quote=“bbohannon, post:11, topic:189564”]Does it matter which junction box the slave and master switch go into? I assumed there wasn’t and currently have installed the master dimmer switch in the larger of the two junction boxes[/quote]It depends on how the circuit is wired. If we continue to assume that my previous assessment is correct and that your circuit has the Line coming into one gang box and the Load going out the second box with a 12/3 cable between them, then the switches can go in either box. If you look at the diagrams that I provided you’ll notice that the location of the master(WD500Z-1) changes.
I wanted to update this thread that I wired using diagram #2 above and voila! I just had to connect both lines to the WT00Z-1 so I can now control/dim my lights. However, I have one exception as for some reason the slave WT00Z-1 switch will not control the lights. It has power as shown by the LED and obviously the line is now connected, so I’m unsure at this point. I have the traveler capped off in both boxes which I assume is correct. Am I missing something?
I didn’t realize I need to associate the two switches (please forgive my ignorance). The WD500Z is included in Vera however, I could not get the WT00Z-1 to pair for some reason. Maybe I need to give a second try but I just assumed it was do to wiring. The switch does have power.
[quote=“bbohannon, post:16, topic:189564”]Maybe I need to give a second try but I just assumed it was do to wiring. The switch does have power.[/quote]Some Z-Wave devices must be excluded first and then included. Try to exclude the WT00Z-1 then do the include.
Man I don’t know what it is, but I can’t get the WT00Zit to include either manually with Veralite on battery, or online via adding device command within vera. Like I said, the switch has power and the LED flashes when I toggle up or down under vera inclusion but, it simply just will not add. Does this sound like a wiring or device/vera issue?
Did you get it to exclude? Try a double tap of the switch when excluding. (I can’t remember for sure if this one requires the double tap.) There’s only a single press to include.
It’s possible you have a bad one, but, I’d be surprised.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:19, topic:189564”]Did you get it to exclude? Try a double tap of the switch when excluding. (I can’t remember for sure if this one requires the double tap.) There’s only a single press to include.
It’s possible you have a bad one, but, I’d be surprised.[/quote]
FINALLY, Success! I don’t think I ever would have known to double tap to include/exclude. Finally I was able to include the aux switch, associate the two, and get two working zwave switches within a 3-way circuit! Thank you so so much for your help!!!
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