New Jasco 3-way dimmer switch failed after adding to Z-wave network

I hope someone can help me with this…

I just installed a new Jasco 3-way dimmer switch set (Primary Model #ZW3003, Aux Model # AZ2002). Hardwire, as odd as it is with these, went fine and the switch pair works as expected, with manual on/off and dim control from each switch. But once I added this node to my Vera 3 network (which also went as expected ? Vera briefly recognized the new addition as node 48), the switch failed. Dead. No blue light on primary, nothing. (And yes, the circuit is still charged.) Primary switch is wired as specified with Line (Incoming hot), Load (Lights), and Traveler. The neutral at the primary switch end of the run bypasses the switch but serves as the return for the load. Aux Switch is on the other side of the load wired with Traveler and Neutral only. If there was a problem with the switches operating manually, I would suspect a wiring issue. But everything worked as it should ? manually. The problem didn’t surface until very soon after being added to my z-wave network, (lights dimmed, then went out and the switch went dead - no manual operation, no nothing). The load, by the way is 9 - 50 watt fixtures (450 watts). Switch is rated at 600 watts. I have 20 or so other z-wave devices (thermostat, and many switches) on my system, most of which are Jasco dimmer switches controlling the same type of light fixture without issue. With additions and deletions over the couple of years that I’ve had the system, this particular switch has become node 48. I hope someone here can shed some light as I’m completely in the dark on this one.

P.S. Other things that I have tried…
Updating firmware (wasn’t latest when adding node, but has been updated to 1.5.622) - didn’t help.
Cut power to circuit to reset switch - didn’t help.
Reset Vera 3 - didn’t help.

I hope someone can help. Is this a bad switch set? Am I missing something simple?

It sounds like you have done everything you can, but you might also wish to double check that the air-gap switch is properly engaged and that the wiring on the main dimmer is still secure. If the dimmer then continues to not operate manually, then I would suggest that you have a bad switch and should replace it.