Is there a rule of thumb for the use of motion detection z-wave switches vs. manual z-wave wall switches in a z-wave-enabled home? I could make a case for motion detection switches in my hallways, but in other rooms, it’s a toss-up. The hallways, kitchen, living room and study use 3-way switches, while the other rooms use a single wall switch.
I saw the question raised before, but I am not sure it was answered. Can a motion detecting switch be wired into an existing 3-way lighting circuit and accomplish the same end (ie. turn on and off when someone enters or leaves at the opposite end?) If both ends are visible from one box, does one just remove the manual non-Z-wave switch from one box and control the hallway from the other?
Now, what does one do if there is another box in an adjoining room that also is part of that circuit in the previous paragraph, so that there are three boxes that control the circuit? I have a hallway that is controlled from both the hallway and the garage, so that when I enter from the garage, I can turn on the hallway light before entering the hallway. It would be nice to use motion detection in garage, as well as the hallway, to turn this circuit on and off.
I am unaware of any z-Wave switch that incorporates motion sensors in the physical switch. They are typically two separate devices. A Z-Wave switch, such as this GE/Jasco 45614 3-way switch kit, and a Z-Wave motion sensor, such as this Schlage Nexia Motion Sensor. The two can be linked directly(association), communicating over Z-Wave, or they can be managed by a controller like Vera.
There are presently no current production Z-Wave 3-way or n-way switches that can be combined with a standard existing switch(remote/accessory), except for in wall micro switches, such as those from Aeon labs or Fibaro outside the U.S. Each Z-Wave switch manufacturer requires their own unique remote(accessory) switch in n-way circuits. You will have to read the manual of your preferred switch to determine which accessory is required and which equally unique wiring scheme it will use.
For example, the previously linked GE/Jasco 45614 3-way switch kit includes a 45609 master Z-Wave switch and a 45610 remote switch. Only the 45610 remote can be used with the 45609 master switch. No switches other than the 45610 can be wired into the same circuit.
For your garage and hallway example, you could use the GE/Jasco 45614 3-way switch kit(or other similar switches) and two motion sensors, one in the garage and one in the hallway.
I’m not sure what the big deal is with N-way switches and Z-Wave setups.
Isn’t it easiest to replace one of the N switches with a regular old Z-wave switch, hard wire the other N-1 switches to always on in the pattress box, and replace those switches (the so called auxilliairy switch in that 3 way switch kit) with any old Z-wave wall mounted controller. It certainly doesn’t have to be the same brand, or be “paired” in any way to the primary switch by the manufacturer. That’s the nice thing of Z-wave: install one switch and as many wall controllers as you like, then link all of those controllers to that one switch.
@intveltr - Of course you are right that you can use any Z-Wave controller to control any Z-Wave switch. But, I think that your answer confuses his question and your solution is not ideal for a few reasons.
An additional Z-Wave controller costs far more than most auxiliary switches used for n-way combinations. The GE/Jasaco 45610 auxiliary switch that I cited in my previous post is half the cost(even less as part of the kit) of the cheapest Z-Wave controller that I have seen, except for surplus GE/Jasco 45600 handheld remote controllers. But, I’m quite sure that he does not wish to mount one of those on his wall.
Your method becomes Z-Wave only, with no physical connection between the master switch and the remotes, whereas most n-way kits are both Z-Wave and also had wired and capable of operating completely independently of Z-Wave and more like the regular switches that everyone is familiar with.
Your method leaves switches or cover plates on the wall that do nothing, or worse, if the switches are not hardwire bypassed the Z-Wave master switch can be de-energized. But with n-way kits, all switches work as expected with no special action or knowledge required of the user.
Here in Europe I’ve never seen these auxiliary switches for N-way switching, and I never contemplated using one… the point of Z-wave is that you don’t need N-way wiring anymore, but if you already have it and these combos are cheaper, then I see your point. For some reason the generic Z-wave controllers are rather expensive, even the ones that have no relay and are only meant to be paired to other devices in an N-way setup.
2, 3) The type of controllers I referred to are meant to be wall-mounted in place of the old switches, like these: http://www.hashop.nl/Webwinkel-Product-12244415/Duwi-Z-Wave-Wandzender-Voor-Busch-Jaeger.html. You can install these over a regular pattress box or just stick them on the wall with adhesive tape. Your housemates will never know the difference between the old setup and the Z-waved one.
The one advantage of your setup is thay you still have N-way switching if the Z-wave network is down.
n-way wiring is very common in the U.S. It is used in most rooms that have multiple entrances, hallways, stairways and more.
In the U.S. we have relatively inexpensive battery operated wireless switches, but they are not Z-Wave. We have nothing(Z-Wave) like what you cited in the U.S.
We do have Z-Wave controller switches like the Evlove LTM-5 controller, which is mains wired to power the switch but is not directly wired to the load or other switches. It is similar to your method despite not being battery operated and with associations can even be used(after association) without a Z-Wave controller. But, as always the cost of the Z-Wave device is the issue. It is very hard to find anything Z-Wave in the U.S. for less than $40.
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