Room 1, Family Room: 4 CREE retrofit LEDs CR6-625L-27K-12-E26, GE 45606 Dimmer - No Issues
Room 2, Guest Bedroom: 4 CREE retrofit LEDs CR6-625L-27K-12-E26, GE 45606 Dimmer - No Issues
Room 3, Office: 4 CREE retrofit LEDs CR6-625L-27K-12-E26, Linear WD500Z Dimmer - No Issues
Room 4, Brother’s Bedroom: 4 CREE retrofit LEDs CR6-625L-27K-12-E26, Linear WD500Z Dimmer - on cold start, lights flash bright for a split second, then return to normal. By cold start I mean if the switch has been off for a long time. If I turn off and on again right away, they act normally.
Room 3 and 4 are on the same circuit, Room 4 is downstream from Room 3. I did find some burnt neutrals on outlets in Room 3. I have changed all the outlets in that room and cleaned up the wiring. I yet have to check all the outlets in Room 4, but the first 2 appear fine. The lights are the last ‘device’ on the circuit. I have also gone to each can for the lights in Room 4 and double checked the connections and all are fine. Same with the connections at the switch box.
I have tested all outlets with an outlet tester and everything checks out properly. Tomorrow I plan on changing all the outlets out, and using pigtails when wiring instead of connecting the wires to both sides of the outlet.
Besides what I have done already, and plan on doing, does anyone have any ideas what else to check?
Sorry if there is a thread similar to this already, I have tried searching but didn’t find anything in line with this problem.
Burnt neutrals? That sounds like a real problem that needs to be dealt with and I’m not convinced that replacing the receptacle with a shiny new one is the fix.
I’m not quite sure why you think changing and rewiring outlets will affect the switch, unless there is more to the burnt neutral issue that we don’t know about. Surely your dimmer is not controlling the receptacles, in direct contradiction to the manual.
Provided that the dimmer switch is indeed wired correctly, my first thought is that it is a bad switch. I’d try swapping the switch with a known good switch and see what happens. If that didn’t resolve the issue, I would then suspect a problem bulb.
I’m changing the outlets because they can cause a loose neutral - plus I wanted to change the outlets anyway. They are old, brown, standard outlets, and I’m upgrading the white, decorator tamper resistant outlets.
When replacing/rewiring the outlets, I noticed all the receptacles were wired using the backstab holes - Now I don’t know for sure, but I’ve read those are not good to use, and lead to weak connections - which can cause excess heat. Again, I’m no expert - just trying to learn as I go. The office had many high drain devices - the one that stands out the most to me is my laser printer, which would cause lamps to dim. When installed the new outlets, I used wirenuts to connect the line and load, and used pigtails to the receptacle screws to connect the new outlets - certainly a more secure and reliable connection.
The outlets are upstream from the switch - so if there is a problem at the outlets, it will carry the problem downstream. The dimmer is not controlling the receptacles.
Good idea on trying a good switch - will swap it with the one in the office and see if that makes a difference. I can also swap all the bulbs, one by one, with the ones in the office to see if that makes any difference.
If all of that doesn’t help - it is then time to call in my electrician! I may end up having him pull a new home run if we deem it necessary.
Never use backstabbing devices. Banned in some places but are really unsafe. Always go to terminal screw unless it is a clamp style like many gfci’s are. Sometimes clamp style are confused as backstab.
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