No! The circle says “load” inside it. That means the circle represents things like a light bulb. The Blue would connect to one side of the light bulb and a White neutral wire would connect to the other side of the light bulb.
Blue from the switch goes to the Load. It does not go to neutral(white).
Also this is the bulbs I have: http://www.amazon.com/Philips-433227-10-5-watt-Style-Dimmable/dp/B00I134ORI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410790780&sr=8-1&keywords=philips+led
I have no experience with those bulbs.
In your previous post, you mentioned a red wire. Often these wires are used with 3-way circuits(where two switches control a light). If yours is a 3-way circuit, then there are other considerations as well, like not using a standard switch in conjunction with the WD500Z-1.
I would recommend getting a electrician or someone with more experience with household electrical systems to assist you.
No! The circle says “load” inside it. That means the circle represents things like a light bulb. The Blue would connect to one side of the light bulb and a White neutral wire would connect to the other side of the light bulb.
Blue from the switch goes to the Load. It does not go to neutral(white).
Also this is the bulbs I have: http://www.amazon.com/Philips-433227-10-5-watt-Style-Dimmable/dp/B00I134ORI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410790780&sr=8-1&keywords=philips+led
I have no experience with those bulbs.
In your previous post, you mentioned a red wire. Often these wires are used with 3-way circuits(where two switches control a light). If yours is a 3-way circuit, then there are other considerations as well, like not using a standard switch in conjunction with the WD500Z-1.
I would recommend getting a electrician or someone with more experience with household electrical systems to assist you.[/quote]
Thanks again for the reply.
I’ve disconnected the switch and put the old one back for now. I think maybe I have the wrong kind of switch. I agree the red is probably traveler, but I don’t have any other wires. Here is a picture Dropbox - Error - Simplify your life
@fantaxp7 - Based on the picture you provided and the information you provided, I would guess that you are dealing with some type of switch loop. This is only my guess and must be confirmed by positively identifying all wires.
The WD500Z-1 cannot be wired into a switch loop type circuit! The good news is that the additional red wire could be used to reconfigure the circuit, as shown in this diagram. At that point the WD500Z-1 could certainly be used.
But, this is all based on assumptions that cannot be relied upon in the real world. Get an electrician to do this for you.
Also note that some Z-Wave dimmers such as the GE/Jasco 45612 Dimmer Switch do not require a neutral and could be wired into such a loop switch circuit. But those dimmers can/should only be used with incandescent bulbs, not LEDs or CFLs.
Wattage does not always stop flicker. If the lights can respond quick enough to the waveform being supplied, they will flicker. Old incandescent lights could not respond and would smooth out any flickering. Capacitors can resolve flickering by filling in the dips in the wave form.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:23, topic:182358”]@fantaxp7 - Based on the picture you provided and the information you provided, I would guess that you are dealing with some type of switch loop. This is only my guess and must be confirmed by positively identifying all wires.
The WD500Z-1 cannot be wired into a switch loop type circuit! The good news is that the additional red wire could be used to reconfigure the circuit, as shown in this diagram. At that point the WD500Z-1 could certainly be used.
But, this is all based on assumptions that cannot be relied upon in the real world. Get an electrician to do this for you.
Also note that some Z-Wave dimmers such as the GE/Jasco 45612 Dimmer Switch do not require a neutral and could be wired into such a loop switch circuit. But those dimmers can/should only be used with incandescent bulbs, not LEDs or CFLs.[/quote]