Hi, new poster. I’ve gotten lots of help from reading other threads, in particular with adding a pigtail from the bundle for the neutral to wire this on/off switch (didn’t work having the neutral straight to it).
Anyway, my problem is that while the light switch now has power and everything turns on, it won’t turn off. Haven’t even added it to the network yet. When I manually push the switch the lights turn out for about a second, then there is an audbile click and they’re back on. For the moment I can only turn them out by pulling the air gap switch. Any thoughts? Thanks for your help!
Thanks for the help. Even though I was pretty sure I had the wires correct I tried switching the Line and Load as you suggested but the switch then doesn’t work at all. When I change the lines back I still have the same issue with essentially the lights being permanently on. I have added the switch to the network with the same results.
The switch is for a single pole light. It is in a 3 gang box with two additional single pole new non z-wave switches that work fine. All three are pigtailed to the same Line…could that be the issue? Each of course has a separate Load and the z-wave switch is bundled to the Neutrals and the Ground.
1. Make sure that this is a singe switch installation and not a 3-way circuit.
This does not refer to the number of gangs or switches in a gang box. It refers to a second(3-way) or third(4-way) switch in the same circuit controlling the light(load).
2. Positively identify the wires in the gang box, don't guess or assume.
This means to positively identify the wires. Don't guess. Don't simply swap wires around for a try because some guy on the internet said they thought that might be it.
3. Connect the switch as per the manual.
If you have properly completed all three of the above steps, then there are few remaining possibilities and I would assume a bad switch. But, before buying another switch, repeat steps one through three.
Forget it. If all you can do is critique my post, then you don’t have an answer. I get it. I’m not guessing, I have it wired correctly, just responding to your post politely. I understand what a 3-way switch is…that’s why I told you it’s a single pole. I’ll keep following up with Jasco since no one on here knows.
I had a bad GE switch that exhibited similar issues before it finally just died. You may just want to swap it out. After I did… everything was fine.
Have some fun and buy a multimeter and use it every time. It has saved me several times from accidentally shorting or blowing switches and fuses. I found some other issues related to my home electrical through doing this.
That behavior normally represents a bad switch. Although the GE products return rate is very low, less than 1-2 every 1000 switches we sell, there are some bad ones occasionally. I test every return we get for the company before we write them off as defective (or user damaged) and normally that trip on and then off indicates a bad switch. they won’t recover after an exclude and delete or remove either.
In this post you imply that your failures are will 45605 receptacles but here you claim the failures are with 45609 switches. Which device(s) are you seeing the failures with?
Where did you get your switches from?
How long have they been installed?
GE/Jasco has a Date Code sticker on them. do your failed devices have the same date code?
If they share they same date code, what is it?
In this post you imply that your failures are will 45605 receptacles but here you claim the failures are with 45609 switches. Which device(s) are you seeing the failures with?
Where did you get your switches from?
How long have they been installed?
GE/Jasco has a Date Code sticker on them. do your failed devices have the same date code?
If they share they same date code, what is it?[/quote]
It was the switches.
Got them from Radioshame.
3 of them have date code of 0933, 1 is 0934 and I can’t find the other 2. I think I have a 7th one going bad but haven’t pulled that one to check it.
I have the EXACT problem with one of my switches. I bought two and one of them behaves like this - turns off and right back on. The other one is fine. Any solution other than going through the pain of returning it?
you may want to try the circuit with a regular old fashioned incandescent bulb, if that isn’t what is in there already. I know that they are supposed to work with any type bulb, but you may be getting some funky noise on the circuit. I have had problems with the GE stuff (like many of us) and to me (just an opinion based on experience, not necessarily scientifically tested facts) they are a bit feisty.
Also, when wired and it goes ‘on’ does the blue led turn off?
Thanks for the info. Guess its one of their failure modes.
I just had 1 out of 3 of my switches start doing this. Not a large sample but a pita.
I was going to swap it out for an instantaneous switch anyways.
You may not like what they’re telling you but they’re still trying to help keep you from damaging your switches, home or yourself/family.
I suspect he doesn’t want to get too much further in helping you with specifics to keep from opening himself from liability should you electrocute yourself, but his advice is still sound.
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