I have been having issues getting this to work and looked through the other cases, but haven’t quite found a situation like mine. For the both the 3-way and 4-way, I can get the master working, but none of the auxes (and now the wife is a bit cheesed at me). I have attached what it looks like in my boxes (the dashed lines are white wires and the blue wires are the loads. To get the masters to work, I’ve had to connect the black wire and the white wire in the aux to complete the circuit, which leads me to believe that the white wires in this case are not neutrals. In the 4-way, for the aux with 4-wires in it, I was able to keep the master going by nutting the blue and the black together. The white wire came from a bundle, which makes me confident it’s a true neutral wire. Any ideas of solutions to this? I tried using a Leviton VRCS1 instead of the GE aux switches and even that hasn’t solved my problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hello,
The neutral wire is typically the issue. Many light switches do not have a neutral wire in the box. If the 120vac source is wired to the light and then extends to the switch (very typical) you will find a 14/2 cable (black & white #14AWG) leaving the light to the switch. The white wire is connected directly to the hot wire at the light and returns from the switch on the black wire. the white wire is not a neutral in this case!
See this site for diagrams:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=4+way+switch+configuration&client=firefox-a&hs=pVH&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=qsNyUaasIanQ2QWymIHADw&ved=0CEEQsAQ&biw=1109&bih=679
If you have a neutral wire at each light switch you will be able to complete your task. I would start with the ground wire to each switch, then ensure you have a neutral at each. The 45609 switch must have the line and load wire and you simply need to have an interconnect wire between each switch (traveler). The interconnect or traveler wire simply needs to tie all the “traveler” terminals together. This would be similar to the interconnect wire on a smoke alarm circuit.
I trust this helps… Jake 8)
I am having trouble hooking up a 3 way as well. Problem is I seem to have a hot wire at my aux. So I have a white - hot wire, black load, and traveler at my aux, and 5 wires at my master. The master is load white and black, and line, nuetral, traveler, ground.
I’ll probably have to draw something up similar to the OP.
Hi SmashSE,
It sounds like you have enough wires between the switches and the neutral wire is at your master (45609) switch. Check out the link above and see if you can make sense of the circuit schematics. You may need to re-assign the wiring between the switches and use the white wire for your neutral. You mentioned there is a load and traveler wire so the black wire will extend your line voltage to the aux switch and then you will use the traveler wire to interconnect the two switches on the “traveler” terminal.
Thanks for the reply Jake. The red is a traveler, but since the white in the aux isn’t a neutral, would I have to take out the box to find a neutral? For some reason, I don’t think my wife would be cool with that. 
Ok, I think I got it. I do have enough wires, and maybe it was lack of sleep, but it just totally clicked today how to get the power where it needs to go. Basically just pass hot to the other side through black.
Unfortunately, the previous setup had the white as a hot. I thought I got it straight, and hooked it all up and it worked! Until I connected the ground, now the 45610 isn’t doing anything. Was confused why hooking up ground would break it until I realized the white was still hot.
Anyway, I think the 45610 is dead, so I’ll get a new one and try it out. Hopefully Amazon will ship next day for me cheap 
Thanks for your help.
SmashSE
Hi PepeSilvia,
Sorry I have not been on this site for a couple days. Did you go to the web site link above and were you able to see a diagram that is similar to your scenario? You show two diagrams above with a 4-way and 3-way switch. How many switches are you connecting and how many lights are you controlling? If your original setup had a 4-way switch then you must have two 3-way switches and control a light(s) from 3 locations. You must determine and identify where the 120vac line and load wiring are connected. Does the neutral wire-through in the back of each light switch box? (no connection to a switch) You will need a neutral wire at each switch or it will not work.
If your existing electrical circuit employed a 4-way switch. You will need to change the terminations at each smart switch. You should have a 45609 switch that connects to the load (light) and a 45610 switch at the other location(s). Each switch must have a line (120vac) connection, a neutral connection, and if you have a blue or red wire between each switch you can use the “colored” wires to connect the “Traveler” terminals together. Note: you will have two “colored” wires at one switch. The switch has two “push-in” connectors and one “screw-terminal” to accommodate the wire.
Hope it works for you and your wife is happy too… Happy wife, happy life!
The most important wire connection is the ground. Please ensure a proper ground connection is terminated at each switch! Do not sacrifice the ground wire for a neutral or traveler connection. The ground wire has no power on it until there is a problem and it’s purpose is to loop the power back to the source to blow a fuse or trip a breaker and kill the power before someone gets killed… most important connection & probably the least respected.