New user here, still planning to set up my first demo network, and my country lies within the European region so the devices available are not as varied as the ones for USA I guess.
Anyhow I am wondering about what real experienced users suggest to use, the insert or the wall mounted models for light dimming and switching ? Which offers better performance and is more reliable in general ?
I am particularly interested in the following:
1- Everlux dimmer set
2- Fibaro 500W (Are there any more “powerful” ones?) dimmer insert
3- Everlux switch set
4- Fibaro 3KW relay insert.
Please advise on how reliable the latter are and if there are any with better quality/performance (price is not an issue) and I was particularly wondering about the life expectancy of these devices especially the dimmers!!!
Thanks and regards to all … and please excuse my noobish questions, we are all bound to learn new things at some stage…
I’m using the Eversprings as well as the Fibaro’s and both of them are working fine.
At this time i’m getting more fibaro wall plugs, because they are small and easy to work with.
I cannot commend on the lifespan of the units, maybe someone else?
I use Fibaro FGS211 (1x3kW) and FGS221 (2x1.5kW) switches for almost all my lighting and heating. I have also installed FGD211 dimmers for others. They work extremely well, have extensive configuration options and provide instant-status updates to Vera.
I installed the first of these last December so it’s too early to know about long-term reliability. I have had two unexplained failures of FGS211. Both modules were from the same batch and are being replaced under warranty.
Thank you for the replies guys… I hope more can give feedback as well…
I am particularly worried about the dimmers because in general dimmers around here do not “live” long, a lot tend to need to be replaced every few months even those that are supposed to be of good quality, and I am talking about regular dimmers. I do hope the z-wave enabled ones can live at least a year, I will be installing for customers and I do not want any headache.
If you do not mind, can you explain the difference between the Fibaro FGS211 (1x3kW) and FGS221 (2x1.5kW) switches ?
If you do not mind, can you explain the difference between the Fibaro FGS211 (1x3kW) and FGS221 (2x1.5kW) switches ?
The FGS211 contains a single relay rated for a 3kW resistive load. This can be controlled via Z-Wave and by a local switch input. A second switch input can be used to control other Z-Wave devices through association and can also be used as a trigger in Vera scenes and logic.
The FGS221 contains two separate relays each rated for 1.5kW resistive loads. They are both controlled via Z-Wave and separate local switch inputs.
If you do not mind, can you explain the difference between the Fibaro FGS211 (1x3kW) and FGS221 (2x1.5kW) switches ?
The FGS211 contains a single relay rated for a 3kW resistive load. This can be controlled via Z-Wave and by a local switch input. A second switch input can be used to control other Z-Wave devices through association and can also be used as a trigger in Vera scenes and logic.
The FGS221 contains two separate relays each rated for 1.5kW resistive loads. They are both controlled via Z-Wave and separate local switch inputs.[/quote]
Thanks for the detailed quick reply, and sorry for being a bit of a noob here (I am an RF engineer so that’s what I mostly know, my electric knowledge is limited) but does that mean that for example the FGS211 can be connected to a single paddle switch with a 3kW maximum load and the FGS221 ca be connected to a double paddle switch with 1.5kW load for each? And if for example I have a switch with 4 paddles and one lights 4 lamps, can I set up the FGS211 on the main line coming to those in order to control all at the same time?
Same if I want to use the dimmer insert module, can it be set up on the main line to control more than one light switch as long as the load is not exceeded ? And concerning the dimmer load, I know an electrician here that suggested that I do not use the maximum load of any dimmer, instead of 500 W i should stick to 300 or 400 maximum, is that true for the fibaro one?
Moreover, has any of you guys used the Busch-Jaeger DURO 2000 switch and/or dimmer sets? Are they reliable and which is better when compared to the Everlux ones?
does that mean that for example the FGS211 can be connected to a single paddle switch with a 3kW maximum load and the FGS221 ca be connected to a double paddle switch with 1.5kW load for each?
I'm not sure I understand what you're asking here. The FGS211 can switch a single circuit and be controlled by a single paddle-switch. The circuit may include multiple lamps or other loads. The total load must not exceed 3kW. The FGS221 can switch two separate circuits each of which can include multiple loads. You can control each relay with its own paddle-switch. The load on each circuit must not exceed 1.5kW.
And if for example I have a switch with 4 paddles and one lights 4 lamps, can I set up the FGS211 on the main line coming to those in order to control all at the same time?
Yes you could do this. In this case the FGS211 would act as a master-switch for the four lighting circuits. Obviously it would only be able to switch on the lamps where the paddle-switch was on.
Same if I want to use the dimmer insert module, can it be set up on the main line to control more than one light switch as long as the load is not exceeded ?
You could do this but...
Using Z-Wave switches/dimmers to control multiple, individually-switched circuits has, to my mind, questionable value. If someone turns off a switch, the automation has no way to turn it on. If you give each circuit its own Z-Wave relay, you have local control with the wall-switch but can also operate each circuit via Z-Wave.
I know an electrician here that suggested that I do not use the maximum load of any dimmer, instead of 500 W i should stick to 300 or 400 maximum, is that true for the fibaro one?
It is generally good practice to stay below the maximum rating of any component. You also need to be aware of the nature of your loads. A 500W dimmer on a 250V supply should be able to supply 2 Amps assuming resistive loads. Regular incandescent lamps are usually a resistive load but CFLs, LEDs and transformer-fed low-voltage lamps are likely to be reactive. This means their load current may be significantly higher than their wattage rating implies. Thus it is possible to overload a dimmer even when the sum of all the load [i]Wattages[/i] is below its own maximum rating.
Some people have noted that dimmable LED lamps can draw peak current that is far higher than their Watts / Volts specification would imply. If you have this type of lamp, I suggest you keep the load on each dimmer below 20% of its maximum rating.
Thanks!!! I really appreciate the detailed explanation you provide.
For example let’s say I have a big hall with 32 lamps controlled by 2 wall switches each having 4 paddles where each button controls 4 lamps and I want to use fibaro inserts to make them all dimmable, how do you suggest would be the best way/solution to get at this to make best use of automation abilities?
My preference would be to have one dimmer module for each circuit of four lamps. That’s going to cost you eight modules, of course. It is also going to require that you can find the physical space required to fit the modules. That may be a challenge unless your walls are hollow and you can access the cavity from behind your switch plates.
It may be possible to locate the dimmer modules near to the lamp fittings but that is going to depend on how they are wired. How friendly is your Electrician friend? ;D
The path of least resistance would be to just use one module for each switch plate as you previously asked. If I was doing this, I would replace the four paddles with one momentary switch. This would allow on/off/up/down control of the 16 lamps together. It probably isn’t what you want but I don’t personally see the advantage in remotely-controlled dimming that is dependent on having get up and switch lights on and off manually…
What you probably need is a quad Z-Wave dimmer but I don’t know whether anyone makes one. If they do, we shall soon hear about it.
Lol the issue is not how friendly my electrician friend is, it is how friendly the customers that I am going to do this for are going to be …
To be honest with you I plan on mainly promoting the normal switch/dimmer modules but this insert module comes as a solution for customers who do not want to change their existing paddles for any reason whatsoever (mostly it will be related to the design of their room and the colours)… I agree with you on questioning the point of having a z-wave enabled dimmer insert when the old switch can cancel the effect by being physically off … i guess the customer has to keep them all on and just switch off from the dimmer module …
Since no quad z-wave dimmer exists, then i will just install this one on the main line for all 4 lights I guess …
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