I have to replace light switches in electric boxes containing 2 and 3 light switches. All Z-Wave switches are too large to fit in the standard box ? What should I do. I only need on/off capabilities. Are they smaller Z-Wave in-wall switches
I have 2 three-gang boxes with 3 Z-wave switches in them. It’s tight. In both cases, I ripped out an old two-gang box & put in a new three-gang box. The boxes I used weren’t particularly oversized.
You might try this as an alternative solution: http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,8027.0.html
…but I haven’t tried these.
I’d also recommend the fibaro switches which DeltaNu1142 recommended. They are very small, and there’s even a version which has two switches in one device, that could save you some space.
Another option would be kind of the same product, Micro Smart Energy Switch from http://www.aeotec.com.
you can always try an extender.
[url=http://www.newtechindustries.com/products/BES1-Single-Gang-Box-Extender-Adds-5%7B47%7D8%22.html]http://www.newtechindustries.com/products/BES1-Single-Gang-Box-Extender-Adds-5{47}8".html[/url]
I’ve used one of these before in the past for a single gang (it was brown and I found it at home depot). I’m sure you can find one for a triple gang. Adds a little extra depth. The advantage is it is easy to modify existing conditions without having to rip out the old box and install a new ‘old work’ box. the disadvantage is the wife might not be happy with the way it looks bumping out of the wall a bit. :-\
I am not a wife, but the first thing that came up my mind was “uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuugly” :o
But it still is a solution, so sorry for the comment.
Ditto. How hard is it to rip out a US wall box and fit a deeper one?
Fit in which direction, depth or width? Most Z-wave switches have an aluminum heat sink with score lines to break off the sides if you are putting multiple switches in one box. Be aware that reducing the size of the heat sink also reduces the load capacity of the switch, so if you are switching multiple lights or high wattage lights on a single switch you may overload the switch.
If you are talking about depth then look at the brand of switch you are using. Many Z-wave switches come with pigtail wires on them. To connect them in the box requires using wire nuts and these take up a lot of space. I used the newer GE/Jasco switches. These come with screw terminals like traditional switches and therefore are not as much of a depth problem. The switch itself is still deeper than a plain old mechanical switch, but at least you don’t need the wire nuts.
Hope this helps.
Good point. Leviton/Monster switches also have lugs (no pigtails).
Depends on which ones you get. Some of them do have wire leads.
Depends on which ones you get. Some of them do have wire leads.[/quote]
OK. All of my Monster switches & scene controllers have lugs… which are the same as the Vizia RF series. Maybe the RF+ has leads? I don’t know.
@ASI … I have most switches Leviton makes and all have lugs …???
With a hammer 
I believe it was the 1000W Magnetic LV dimmer that has/had leads, they just redesigned it so maybe the switched it.
Ditto. How hard is it to rip out a US wall box and fit a deeper one?[/quote]
It’s a can of worms in older houses. When messing with old wiring complete with cracked and brittle insulation, the more you play with it the higher the risk of shorts and ground faults and then the drywall comes down.