Hi.
I have a hot water tank that is indirectly heated by a separate oil-fired boiler. The boiler has five thermostat zones on it, one dedicated to the hot water heater. The only wiring going to the hot water tank are the pair of low-voltage (24v DC) wires which connect to the temperature knob on the water tank. These wires are joined up at the manifold to the zone controller for the hot water tank.
In the winter the house is frequently empty during the week, but the heat is left on and controlled via z-wave thermostats. I currently have to remember to manually turn down the hot water tank temperature knob to avoid running the boiler simply to heat water that won’t be used. I’d like to use the Mimolite as a simple switch to turn on and off the hot water tank’s ability to call for heat from the boiler.
I don’t believe I need to use any of the load sensing features of the Mimolite - I simply want it to act as an on/off switch which connects the low voltage wires to the hot water tank when “On”.
I’m thinking that I’ll splice into the low voltage pair which runs to the hot water tank. I’ll connect the side coming from the zone controller, which is powered, into the inputs of the Mimolite. (I still plan to use the included 24v DC power source of the Mimolite.) Then I will then connect the hot water tank side of the wire to the NO1 and COM1 outputs of the Mimolite. Then, with the Mimolite set in Latched mode, turning the Mimolite “ON” should connect the wire, allowing the hot water tank thermostat to function. Turning if “OFF” should sever the connection, effectively preventing the water tank from calling for heat when we’re not home.
Can anyone give me some feedback on whether my proposed connection (and overall strategy) is sound? Specifically, I’ve no clear idea which output pair (of the three on the Mimolite - N01, NC1, COM1) would be correct, so I based my pair of choice on a similar wiring diagram for a garage door opener. I have no idea if this is correct or not.
Any insights are appreciated.
Thanks in advance.