Help with GE 12722 & 12723 3way switch

Other Devices & Integrations Lighting & Load Control
1

Hi
please help with the wiring
i have read through the forum didnt find any info on my 3 way configuration
attachment is my 3way configuration at home

i put my GE12722 on the left box and GE12723 on the left

i was able to make my 12723 add on switch to control my 12722 main switch on/off
but no matter what i do i cant make the light come on/off i think the reason is on the right side of 12723 box there is 3 cable and i only able to connect 2

please help

i am using vera lite

2

You’ll need to change how the wires are connected at the lights. Your preexisting configuration has the load running from the left switch to the right switch and then to the lights. You’ll need to reconfigure so that Load terminates at the lights and only Neutral and Traveler extend to the right switch.

See the attached diagram.

3

i have 3 lights in between
can i still using same wiring as your picture shows?

and will i need change back the wiring in future if i need change back to the regular switch ?

Thanks

4

The number of lights doesn’t really matter, so long as the lights are connected to the Neutral and Load wires in my diagram.

Yes, you would need to change the wiring back, or to some other configuration, if you used switches other than the GE’s that you listed.

5

Timely discussion… i just pulled apart some switches in my house and was going to replace them with this same combination. unfortunately, it looks like i don;t have a neutral wire between my switches. Am i s.o.l. or is there a way to use use these switches here (see diagram)?

6

Assuming that all three marettes and the left-hand switch are in the same box, you should have no problem getting it to work with the GE switches…

With reference to your diagram: For the switch on the left-hand side:

  1. remove marette from black/black bundle in lower left corner… Connect black from panel to GE Dimmer switch “LINE” terminal. Cap the remaining black wire (that goes to the remote switch).
  2. Remove White from existing switch and connect it and one end of a short length of white wire to the bundled white/white/white. Use will probably need to get a larger marette. Connect the other end of the short white wire to the GE Dimmer “NEUTRAL” terminal.
  3. remove the black wire from the existing switch and connect it to the GE Dimmer “LOAD” terminal.
  4. remove the red wire from the existing switch and connect it to the GE Dimmer “TRAVELLER” terminal.

For the switch on the right-hand side:

  1. remove the red wire from the existing switch and attach it to the GE Auxiliary switch “TRAVELLER” terminal.
  2. remove the white wire from the existing switch and connect it to the GE Auxiliary switch “NEUTRAL” terminal.
  3. remove the black wire from the existing switch and cap it.
7

Nicely done @cybrmage. Good work redrawing his diagram too.

8

Outstanding!

9

Hi Z-Waver
on my basement i have another weird one
the panel actually go to first light then in that junction box only have 2 wires go to the switch 1
on the switch 1 box there is 3 wires goes to switch 2

the wire goes to switch one is weird because the hot actually is “WHITE”

i looked all the wiring seems the zwave switch need 3 cables and now i only have 2 available (no way to pull another cable )
is there a solution ?

please see the wiring diagram

10

can i use the ground as my neutral or load ?
as i only have 2 cables from the panel to switch

11

[quote=“Yutaka, post:10, topic:191650”]can i use the ground as my neutral or load ?
as i only have 2 cables from the panel to switch[/quote]
Simple answer to this one.
[size=14pt]NO![/size]

12

so is there any solution for this ?
please advice

13

One solution (not ideal in my opinion) is to mount a z-wave module in the junction box by the light and then use two z-wave wall switches with association to talk directly to the module.
Using association menas that they will work regardless of the state of vera but this is a costly method. You need to ensure that the wall switches support association as not all do.

14

@Yutaka - Never use a ground for anything but a ground. NEVER

Based on your description, you will not be able to use the GE switches in your “switch loop” circuit. But, you can probably use something like the Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller to provide Z-Wave control capability to your circuit. See the attached diagram for how that would work.

15

thanks for reply
i still have couple of this relay left

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=11989

will this work?
(use diagram 2?)
please suggest the wiring to the switch (do i need 3 way switch or regular switch )

16

Yes, it could be used as well. Just be cognizant of the 800watt(7amps@120VAC) limit on the Monoprice switch.

17

what about the switch
do i still use 3 way switch or the regular 2 way switch

please help with the wiring to the switch as i see the diagram 2 seems only need 2 way switch

18

Both my diagram and the Monoprice module diagram require two standard 3-way switches.

2-way switches are used only in single switch circuits.

19

please help me find where i did wrong
i put in like this but doesnt work

20

the 3 way was working before i connect this relay
now my relay is flashing
is the device broken or my wiring is wrong?