Help With Garage Door & Alarm System

Apologies in advance if the has been addressed, but after some extensive searching I cannot find it.

I am building a new house and creating the HA around VERA. I think I have most of the issues solved (we shall see when I start integrating all of this in the next few weeks… ???) but there are two outstanding items where I am stuck: Garage Doors/Electric Gate and Alarm System. Any help would be very, very appreciated!

Garage Door / Gate
I would like to have the ability to remotely open and close the garage doors and electric gate. The Wayne Dalton does not seem to do that! The only option I have found is to go with the Insteon relay http://www.smarthome.com/74551/I-O-Linc-INSTEON-Garage-Door-Control-Status-Kit/p.aspx and attach the USB controller. Has anyone tried that? Is there a better way? (The idea here is to trigger a scene when the gate opens, and also to get notified if the gate or garage door is left open by an irresponsible teenager and be able to close it.)

Alarm System
We have pre-wired the house for an alarm system and want to put in any of the standard monitored alarms (honeywell, dsc, etc.). But I would very much like to be able to integrate sufficiently with VERA to be able to at least arm or disarm remotely. (Would be even nicer if we can get more detailed info from the alarm, but for now it is fine if we just are able to arm/disarm.) Any advice on WHICH alarm system I should buy to best do that?

Thank you very much for any advice.

Garage Door:

My solution for garage door open/close was pretty simple.

  1. Purchase a low voltage, general purpose relay with a 110v coil.
  2. Get an outdoor Double Gangbox to mount your relay in.
  3. Get an inexpensive 2-prong extension cord (3’ or 6’).
  4. Length of 22gauge garage door opener wiring (Length will depend on how far from your garage door opener, you plan to locate the relay).
  5. ON/OFF NON DIMMABLE Z-Wave Outlet or Appliance Module.

If the dual gang box doesn’t have a hole for wiring, drill a 1/2" hole in one end of the box.

Plan on mounting your new double gang box in the garage rafters or on the ceiling within 3’ of an available outlet.

Mount the relay inside the dual gang box.

You’ll wire the two Normally Open poles of the relay, which close when energized by 110v, with the 22Gauge wire to your garage door opener. Consult your garage door opener’s manual for wiring diagrams. The wires will be connected to the same two posts on the rear of your opener as the push-button wall opener.

Cut the female end of your 3’ or 6’ extension cord off. Strip the ends of the extension cord and wire them to your relay. use the 2 poles for energizing the 110v coil for this.

Mount the wired gang box and plug in your new contraption to the z-wave outlet or appliance module.

After linking the z-wave Appliance module or Outlet to Vera, create a scene which turns on the Appliance module or Outlet for 2seconds - 5seconds and then turns it off.

Every time the scene is run, the appliance module is turned on, energizing the relay, closing the loop, opening/or closing the garage door, and then the power to the relay is turned off 2 - 5sec later. You are essentially creating a z-wave version of the button on your wall. All your wall switch does is temporarily close the loop to open/close circuit of your garage door opener.

For me… It has worked like a charm. Your mileage may vary.

Hope this helps.

I wonder how this would work for me, on my garage door openers, on the button on the wall there is a switch to lock the openers, this also disables using the remotes for it. It also apparently sends a small amount of voltage through the line because the button lights up.

I’ve never actually dismantled one of the button assemblies so i’m not sure if there’s anything special in it or not, but it’s only two wires.

@FrankHill73

Very clever implementation here, thanks for sharing. Out of curiosity, since this is a toggle rather than a discreet open and close (which does not seem possible with a standard opener), do you ever have issues where you are unsure if your door is open or closed? Do you perhaps keep track of this with a contact sensor such as an HRDS1?

Thanks again.

I think the homepro zrf113 and a hrds1 is the standard solution among users on the forum. The one thing that hasn’t been shared on here is the luup plugin used to integrate this into one virtual device. I’m sure all of us are using different luup code to implement this. The version I created is a luup implementation file designed to be used in conjunction with the door lock device file, so the garage door actually looks/acts like any other door on my system.
I believe at this time that UL will not list a garage opening/closing device that can be operated remotely as this is a safety issue, which might have something to do with why nobody has posted their code.

Very cool woodsby. I’ve seen the zrf113 mentioned, but never noticed it had a discrete relay and could therefor control low voltage as well nice. So you just hook that up to power, and then hook it’s relay leads up to the opener as if it were a wall button yes?

Has the combo been rock solid for you? I notice that occasionally my HRDS1 doesn’t respond correctly on open/close. It’s probably 98% effective on my (interior) door, but I’m not sure I’d risk the 2% of it reporting the wrong state for an outside garage door.

Try buying a zrf113, I’ve had one on order for months and the projected ship date is now September which I don’t expect for one minute will be honored again.
Other solutions are to use a wall switch that is capable of switching an independent load (there are a couple of these available).

I’ve just modified an old Intermattic appliance module to effectively do the same but the 110V relay should also work.

Richard

Let me take a stab at the Alarm System integration question.

At this time, there are 2 Alarm Panel integrations. I wrote one some time back for the Paradox Alarm Panel, and you’ll see that here:

http://code.mios.com/trac/mios_paradox-alarm

The second integration is one that @javier is building for the DSC Series alarm Panels. It hasn’t been formally been released yet, but you’ll see it here:

http://code.mios.com/trac/mios_dscalarmpanel

The Paradox is the Alarm system I use in my house, so I actively develop the codebase with features (etc). It’s currently built for UI2, but I have a fully UI4 version fully operational now and intend to release it once UI4 goes Production (or wide-release Beta). There are a few people on the fourms that use it, but I don’t keep tabs overall (privacy and all)

It has support for Remote Arming, Stay-Arming and Disarming functions, along with status for up to 192 Zones (depending upon the particular Paradox DGP, EVO or Spectra model). It fires events when an “Area” is Breached, or a Zone is Opened/Closed (for things like Notifications and Scene Actions/Automation)

ie. Open a Door-Zone and a Light comes on, Move in a Motion-Zone and the TV comes on (etc)

There’s a bunch more, but it’s mostly outlined in the Wiki page referenced above so I won’t cover it again here. I’ve been running it now (in various stages of Development) for about a yr now. It was released for GA in Nov 2009 (full source, and free)

I run it via the SQRemote iPhone interface, and use Scenes to control the “Arming” functions of the Alarm Panel. I could do the same for Disarm, but don’t just yet as it would require me to store a Disarm Passcode (the API I’ve exposed supports this). I have a pre-release of the SQRemote, and it supports a bunch more stuff that’s also handy here (when they release I’ll post some pictures)

Javier and I have some work to do in order to “standardize” the Alarm interfaces we expose so there can be better support/integration with the Remote Control devices (like SQRemote, iVera etc). That should further extend the options for Remote Control.

The DSC’s are much more available than the Paradox system that I run, but I still love the system (even excluding the Vera integration). My system is [mostly] outlined in the Wiki page above.

I modified an Intermatic appliance module to remotely control my door.

I mounted the circuit board from one of my garage door openers INSIDE the appliance module! So, the module can be placed anywhere in the garage.

As with Frank, I run a scene in Vera (SQ Remote) which activates the appliance module for 2 seconds, then deactivates it. Works like a charm.

I use a door sensor to ensure the door is closed when it is supposed to be.

-Robert

[quote=“fall-line, post:4, topic:166190”]@FrankHill73

Very clever implementation here, thanks for sharing. Out of curiosity, since this is a toggle rather than a discreet open and close (which does not seem possible with a standard opener), do you ever have issues where you are unsure if your door is open or closed? Do you perhaps keep track of this with a contact sensor such as an HRDS1?

Thanks again.[/quote]

Yes, I do have an HRDS1 W&D Sensor on the Garage Door. I also Have a Camera Located inside the Garage facing outward, showing live feed of both doors.

[quote=“woodsby, post:5, topic:166190”]I think the homepro zrf113 and a hrds1 is the standard solution among users on the forum. The one thing that hasn’t been shared on here is the luup plugin used to integrate this into one virtual device. I’m sure all of us are using different luup code to implement this. The version I created is a luup implementation file designed to be used in conjunction with the door lock device file, so the garage door actually looks/acts like any other door on my system.
I believe at this time that UL will not list a garage opening/closing device that can be operated remotely as this is a safety issue, which might have something to do with why nobody has posted their code.[/quote]

The homepro zrf113 is a packaged version of what I’ve done and about the same price. However, when I tried to order one back in April of 2010, it wasn’t available for shipping until July… I’ve since seen others post that it is now back ordered until September.

The other reason I went with this solution, was because I was interested in how well it would work. I implemented a larger version of this for my Pool Pump, which required a 220V Contactor instead of a 110V Relay. It too works like a charm.

Thanks for the great ideas and help. I will give this a try for the gate first I think and then for the garage.

Also, great news on the DSC and the Paradox. This is fantastic - the one thing I was missing for what I want to do with Vera. (Sorry I missed it on the wiki but thanks for repeating.)

Am planning to get to work on all this in a few weeks (once the AC is on in the new house!).

Thanks Again!

@SolarExec,

I’m also planning on dipping my toes into an Alarm system but am trying to work out which horse to bet on at the moment. Hope you don’t mind but I’m going to hijack your thread a bit with some questions; I figured you’ll maybe even benefit with some of the answers anyway!? I’m a bit of newb when it comes to alarms and have no clue what so ever.

Looking for some opinions from both camps really:

The DSC stuff seems more widely available and maybe a little bit more flexible so I’m leaning more that way at the moment from a hardware standpoint. The price also looks good and I was thinking on the below coupled with the RS232 interface as a starter kit (seems good value?)

At the moment my house isn’t really wired for an Alarm, other than a ton of unused telephone cables which I might be able to use perhaps to link the panel with the keypad perhaps? I don’t really want to wire anything else in at this stage so will be using mainly wireless sensors.

Can the respective plugins support some of the other devices like smoke sensors and water sensors etc? I assume these would just be exposed as a regular trip sensor anyway!? Can the temp sensors also be used? It seems the alarm system is a good cheap way to get the same functionality that some Z wave devices offer.

If I went with the DSC stuff then would Javier’s plugin work as well with SQ remote as Guessed’s appears too?

How comparable are the paradox systems in terms of price and features to the DSC stuff? In other words would I be getting the same sort of thing for the price, and does one system have a better reputation than other?
Even though price is a big decider for me, I don’t want to buy something and find it then to be unreliable etc!

@strangely, I’m not an Alarm guru, and this is really the first Alarm system I’ve ever had installed into a house I own. From a functionality standpoint, there are a few things that the “better” keypads have that I’d look for again in order get get higher WAF. So when you pick your Panel vendor, make sure you can get it with a higher-end Keypad as well.

The most basic Alarms have a numeric Keypad and no display. These typically “just beep” when they’re arming (etc). The next level up seem to have a rudimentary display for the code, sometimes Numeric and sometimes a Grid of Zone LED’s. Again, these often just beep, or display a Numeric code when they’re arming.

The one I have has a full Alpha Numeric display (see the wiki page for links to it on the Paradox site). It displays a label (Installer settable) along with the current status of each Zone in a Rotatating Fashion.

If I leave the Master Bedroom windows open, the two lines display something like:

010 Zone Open
   Master Bedroom

and then toggle to:

Area 1
    Not Ready

and then flip back to the first (etc). This is REALLY handy when you have a lot of zones (I have 18) as it tells you what’s open and/or failing. It also beeps (etc) but the above is much more useful.

All of the Labels are programmable by Zone (like above) and by Area (I haven’t bothered to set mine since I only have one area).

They also tend to have dedicated buttons for Arming (various Arming modes)

My Mrs loves this, esp compared to ones she’s had in other places that she’s lived.

From what I’ve seen, the higher end Keypads from co’s like GE (Concord 4) have similar features. Most of these can also get announce-modules that talk to you, take commands over a phone (etc) but I haven’t added any of these to mine.

I do know mine can support Smoke and Heat sensors (I have the latter right now), but apparently there’s some code that means these cannot replace the Wired Smoke sensors that CA requires. Something to be careful of as you setup your system.

other than a ton of unused telephone cables which I might be able to use perhaps to link the panel with the keypad perhaps?

I have 3x Keypads (front, garage and master bedroom), they’ll all wired with standard Alarm wiring (which is 4x conductor, and “thick” presumably as they’re carrying voltage and signals across long distances). Not sure if Cat3/Phone cable will cut it for this purpose, you’d have to check the load specs on the particular devices. I suppose you could bond pairs if you have Cat5 Cabling :wink:

Anyhow most of the sensor inputs are configurable to handle different device types and, from memory, different styles (NC or NO) to trigger events.

Inputs can be setup to trigger a regular alarm, fire alarm (etc). There are also keypad buttons for user-panic as well.

Can the temp sensors also be used?

Not that I’ve seen, there are other Panels that do that type of stuff but they don’t have integrations yet.

It seems the alarm system is a good cheap way to get the same functionality that some Z wave devices offer.

Right, once you have a baseline platform that’s expandable, you can add a ton of stuff. I have 24-Zone setup (18 used) so have a bunch of room for expansion. I can add boards to get up to 48 Zones on my DGP (the higher models go up to 192 Zones) and I have a bunch of Wireless Zones (via an attached Magellan) for Remote Controls or Wireless Sensors (if I add them)

You can see the Markets they’re targetting with this thing.

I was thinking of adding a few [Wired] Motion sensors around the house to help trigger Scenes. I prefer Wired since there are no batteries to replace (HSM100’s burn batteries) but there are Wireless ones also that are very reliable.

If I went with the DSC stuff then would Javier's plugin work as well with SQ remote as Guessed's appears too?

I can’t comment on the comparison, but I believe he does the basics the same way I do, notably Alarm Zones become a Motion-Sensor variant in Vera. This is the key to getting the “dashboard” in Vera, as well as in SQRemote.

There’s a separate Luup thread where I’m trying to get Javier to standardize the interface/API for an Alarm Zone (for Arming, Disarming, yada-yada). Currently there is no standard, so if we can get this done then the Control Point folks (SQRemote, iVera and the Android options) will be able to build a UI that handles all Alarm Systems for Arming/Disarming (etc)…

In the interim, you can use Scenes to “talk” to our respective API’s (declaratively, no coding), and these Scene buttons can be exposed in most of the Control Points. The downside here is that “Disarm” would require you to store your PIN code in Vera, so I don’t do that (it can, I just don’t)

How comparable are the paradox systems in terms of price and features to the DSC stuff?

From what I’ve seen, the Paradox modules are expensive and the DSC ones are a lot cheaper. That said, the Paradox stuff is crazy-expandable. If I were going to build a small system, I’d definitely research the DSC options, but a key driver would be the Keypad UI for WAF.

If I were going to code another Alarm Plugin, I’d look at the GE models (like the Concord 4) or perhaps and Elk. But that’s not going to happen anytime soon :wink:

BTW, I’ve attached a snippet of the newer UI component that the Paradox plugin will have for UI4. It’s still a work in progress, but it gives you the Arm/Disarm controls in the “Area 1” widget now… I’ve also provided an example of how UI4 shows a Motion sensor (in this case a Window) that’s open.

I have a request open somewhere for different Motion types so we can get better visualizations (Windows, Doors, etc)

That said, once you have a Control Point (like SQRemote, iVera, Android stuff) you tend not to use the Desktop/HTML UI that much apart from setup.