Hardwired door and window sensor recs? And other budget/value product recs?

Community Playground Getting Started & Initial Setup
1

Hello! I’m new to this whole world and am not an electrician at all, so I’m facing a really steep learning curve.

Our house is currently being remodeled and it’s down to the studs. Our electrician is wiring according to the “Future-proof your house” guide from cocoontech.

So, our doors and windows are being wired for sensors. I’d like to buy the sensors before the remodel is done so that they can connect them, too. What sensors are recommended? I tried searching here and on cocoontech, but everything I find seems to be folks who have existing hardwired alarms. For those of us looking to set up new ones, any recommendations?

Also, is there a good list on other recommended budget products? Before spending $$$$ on home automation, I’d like to try a few devices and see how it goes.

Based on what I found on these forums, I’m planning to buy the Intermatic dimmers and receptacles off of ebay (if they respond to my email question). And I’ll use the DSC alarm system to link into VeraLite.

I think I just need to figure out a thermostat, a sound system, motion detectors, video camera, CO and smoke detectors, hot water circulator, and door lock (but hear that ones that will unlock when it senses your phone’s Bluetooth nearby are coming out soon, so I think I’ll wait for that)… Any recommendations for budget/value devices? (And the best place to buy them?)

Thanks!

2

Hi, I will try to help you the much I can.

First, great choice for a DSC alarm panel. This alarm is cheap and work very well with the vera dsc plugin. For the door and windows sensor, just use standard magnetic sensor and normal infrared motion detector for the alarm. With the plugin, you can use the sensors and motion detector in your scene.

The intermatic dimmer on ebay for 99$ a 6 pack is a great price. The distributor automatedoutlet is a good compagny. I brought all my z wave switch from them and I didn’t have any problem. The intermatic dimmer only work with normal bulb (incadescent in french), no led or clf. Automated Outlet doesn’t have anymore the CA3000 relay switch for ON/OFF operation, they only have CA600 dimmer switch like on ebay. Call them if you have any question, they are very nice and helpful.

To link the dsc alarm panel to veralite, buy the envisalink-3. You just need to ethernet wire to your alarm panel to connect it.

For thermostat, if you have a central heat/air system, just buy any thermostat compatible with vera like the NEST, a radio-thermostat, intermatic…

For sound system, to make it simple, just buy a few wireless Sonos play 3 or play 5. The sound is great and you can play audio file on it with vera too. I use it at my condo when I enter my condo, it disarm my alarm, open the door, ajust thermostat, open light and tell me “Hi, welcome home.”

For video camera, just use a foscam ip wireless camera. Foscam work with vera.

Door lock, just use the ping sensor that when you phone is near you house and connect to your wireless routeur, you can make a scene to tell vera to unlock your door. No need a blutooth door lock.

3

Thank you, thank you! That was super helpful.

A couple of follow-up questions, if you don’t mind.

I’m planning to use LED lights, so I guess I’ll have to find some other dimmer option. Is there a good budget option for LEDs? The GE ones?

For the connection between the DSC and Veralite, do I also need this: http://code.mios.com/trac/mios_dscalarmpanel# ?
And any DSC connector that you’d recommend?

For the camera, should I do a wired camera if I can, rather than the Foscam wireless IP camera?

Any specific product recommendations (links, even?) would be great. There seem to be sooo many options!

Thanks a bunch!!!

4

No problem

I don’t know a compatible budget friendly option for LED dimmer. The problem with dimmer and LED is that there is not a minimum load on the switch. You need to have at least 40 watts of load for a dimmer to work correctly. Most of dimmer only have two wires. For LED or CFL, choose one with three wire. Look for dimmer in Leviton brand. There are not cheap, but you may find the one you need.

For the DSC alarm, you need to buy a interface module to connect your veralite to the panel. Buy the envisalink-3. You just connect the 4 wires for the keypad to the module and plug in a ethernet cable. The link you put in your last post is a plugin that you will download on your veralite. The plugin is free and most of them are from people from this forum. This plugin will make the connection from your vera to the interface module envisalink 3 for your panel. That way, you will be able to use all your magnectic door and windows sensor from your dsc panel in your vera.

Envisalink 3 : Home Security Store | The Best Home Security Systems

For camera, if you can bring a ethernet cable to every place you want a camera, go ahead and do it. After you plug your camera and your vera, you will have to download the foscam plugin in your vera to use it. You can buy any foscam camera that DO NOT support h.264 with the foscam plugin made for vera.

5

cant wait to try this thanks

6

[quote=“peterluc8080, post:4, topic:175093”]No problem

I don’t know a compatible budget friendly option for LED dimmer. The problem with dimmer and LED is that there is not a minimum load on the switch. You need to have at least 40 watts of load for a dimmer to work correctly. Most of dimmer only have two wires. For LED or CFL, choose one with three wire. Look for dimmer in Leviton brand. There are not cheap, but you may find the one you need.

For the DSC alarm, you need to buy a interface module to connect your veralite to the panel. Buy the envisalink-3. You just connect the 4 wires for the keypad to the module and plug in a ethernet cable. The link you put in your last post is a plugin that you will download on your veralite. The plugin is free and most of them are from people from this forum. This plugin will make the connection from your vera to the interface module envisalink 3 for your panel. That way, you will be able to use all your magnectic door and windows sensor from your dsc panel in your vera.

Envisalink 3 : Home Security Store | The Best Home Security Systems

For camera, if you can bring a ethernet cable to every place you want a camera, go ahead and do it. After you plug your camera and your vera, you will have to download the foscam plugin in your vera to use it. You can buy any foscam camera that DO NOT support h.264 with the foscam plugin made for vera.[/quote]

Thank you! I’ve emailed my contractor with questions for the electrician on the LED dimmer.

Is there a thread somewhere of, things I wish I had done in setting up my HA system? I’m thinking about where we’d want a camera and am sure there are things I’m not thinking of (for the camera and for other devices!).

7

[quote=“peterluc8080, post:2, topic:175093”]Hi, I will try to help you the much I can.

First, great choice for a DSC alarm panel. This alarm is cheap and work very well with the vera dsc plugin. For the door and windows sensor, just use standard magnetic sensor and normal infrared motion detector for the alarm. With the plugin, you can use the sensors and motion detector in your scene.

The intermatic dimmer on ebay for 99$ a 6 pack is a great price. The distributor automatedoutlet is a good compagny. I brought all my z wave switch from them and I didn’t have any problem. The intermatic dimmer only work with normal bulb (incadescent in french), no led or clf. Automated Outlet doesn’t have anymore the CA3000 relay switch for ON/OFF operation, they only have CA600 dimmer switch like on ebay. Call them if you have any question, they are very nice and helpful.

To link the dsc alarm panel to veralite, buy the envisalink-3. You just need to ethernet wire to your alarm panel to connect it.

For thermostat, if you have a central heat/air system, just buy any thermostat compatible with vera like the NEST, a radio-thermostat, intermatic…

For sound system, to make it simple, just buy a few wireless Sonos play 3 or play 5. The sound is great and you can play audio file on it with vera too. I use it at my condo when I enter my condo, it disarm my alarm, open the door, ajust thermostat, open light and tell me “Hi, welcome home.”

For video camera, just use a foscam ip wireless camera. Foscam work with vera.

Door lock, just use the ping sensor that when you phone is near you house and connect to your wireless routeur, you can make a scene to tell vera to unlock your door. No need a blutooth door lock.[/quote]
Can I ask you for more specifics on some of the products? I get a bit overwhelmed with all the options.

For door and window sensor – you say any magnetic sensor and any normal infrared motion detector for the alarm. So, any of the sensors on here: Home Security Store | The Best Home Security Systems

And this motion sensor would be fine? http://www.homesecuritystore.com/p-229-aurora-ademco-pir-motion-detector.aspx

And for the Foscam IP camera, a look around the forums seems to indicate the Foscam FI8910W is popular. Should I go with that one? Does it not have the h.264 and it clearly has the plugin, right? http://www.amazon.com/Foscam-FI8910W-Wireless-Network-Antennas/dp/B007XW5QC0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1367354920&sr=8-10&keywords=foscam+8910w

The Foscam FI9818W also looks to be popular. Do you have a recommendation between the two? http://www.amazon.com/Foscam-FI8918W-Wireless-Network-Viewing/dp/B00466X9SY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367356451&sr=8-1&keywords=FI9818W

And for thermostat, this one seems popular (and inexpensive): http://www.amazon.com/TZEMT400BB3NX-SL-Management-Thermostat-Intelligence/dp/B008DNAGBO/ref=pd_cp_hi_2

Our old house has a super basic thermostat, so I’m not even sure what all the functions are on the more expensive version. I just set the temperature, right?

Thanks!!!

8

@Greenhighlighter

Hi,

First, yes you can use about any magnetic sensor with the DSC alarm panel and about any wire motion detector. So you just need to bring a wire from your alarm panel to each place you want to place a magnectic or motion sensor. Use a 4 wire telephone cable. It’s cheap and work great. Each motion detector will use 4 wires, one for power, one for ground and the other two for the contact. The magnetic sensor only use two wires but don’t bother and just put 4 wires telephone cable.

Yes, for camera, use a foscam. There are cheap and the support on the forum is great. I will check if one is better than the other tomorrow, but I have a fews F18910W and they work great.

For the thermostat, you need to check if you are using a normal HAVC thermostat. A HAVC thermostat use 24v to control. If you have a thermostat like that, you need to verify if you have the good wires behind the thermostat. Check to see if you have a few small cable. Look if you see a green, yellow, white, black wire. If you only see a normal 240v or 120v AC cable for a electric heater near windows, you CANNOT directly connect the 24v. thermostat to it. You will burn your house! If your thermostat control a electric heater with high AC voltage, you need to buy a small transfo from AUBE RC-84… I don’t remember the name, will check tomorrow, and then connect the 24v. Thermostat to it.

Hope it help! I will post you the information I don’t remenber tomorrow

Peter

9

[quote=“peterluc8080, post:8, topic:175093”]@Greenhighlighter

Hi,

First, yes you can use about any magnetic sensor with the DSC alarm panel and about any wire motion detector. So you just need to bring a wire from your alarm panel to each place you want to place a magnectic or motion sensor. Use a 4 wire telephone cable. It’s cheap and work great. Each motion detector will use 4 wires, one for power, one for ground and the other two for the contact. The magnetic sensor only use two wires but don’t bother and just put 4 wires telephone cable.

Yes, for camera, use a foscam. There are cheap and the support on the forum is great. I will check if one is better than the other tomorrow, but I have a fews F18910W and they work great.

For the thermostat, you need to check if you are using a normal HAVC thermostat. A HAVC thermostat use 24v to control. If you have a thermostat like that, you need to verify if you have the good wires behind the thermostat. Check to see if you have a few small cable. Look if you see a green, yellow, white, black wire. If you only see a normal 240v or 120v AC cable for a electric heater near windows, you CANNOT directly connect the 24v. thermostat to it. You will burn your house! If your thermostat control a electric heater with high AC voltage, you need to buy a small transfo from AUBE RC-84… I don’t remember the name, will check tomorrow, and then connect the 24v. Thermostat to it.

Hope it help! I will post you the information I don’t remenber tomorrow

Peter[/quote]

Thanks so much Peter!

About the thermostat, it’s essentially a new build, so I’m pretty sure I can put in anything.

10

The Foscam cameras are good value for the price, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they are good with Vera. Yes, the integration is decent, but what do you intend to do with it? You can’t record video with Vera, and you are likely to find that the Foscam’s motion detection is average at best. In some situations it is fine, but you are likely to get lots of false triggers. Not so good for motion detect.

For motion detection, you are likely better off investing in one of the alarm systems and connecting that to Vera.

And for video surveillance, I suspect you are better off with something like Blue Iris. Better motion detection, video recording, overlays, etc. Unfortunately that means you need a PC running Windows.

Other opinions on this?

Good luck.

11

I have automated my house, my dad’s house and his wifes office building, here are some notes from what I have found.

Thermostat: I personally use the Trane for my house and 2 of them at my dad’s house, I used 2 of the Honeywell for the office and they all work fine.

Cameras: I would run an ethernet cable to the ceiling of each room in the corner and put a jack there. Then I would get a Netgear (FS728TP-100NAS) 24 port PoE switch. This switch can detect on each port if they need power and if so how much and send it to it. You can then use the Foscam 8910 PoE Version and only have a small network cable running from the back of the camera to the network jack in the ceiling, for camera’s that don’t have PoE you can use a $15 PoE Splitter so you take a network cable from the jack in the ceiling to the splitter and then it brakes out a ethernet data cable and a small power cable to the camera. If you can, always run a network cable to your camera’s, only use WiFi if you have no other choice. You can also use the Foscam 9821w which is a 720p H.264 camera, this will work with vera fine I have one connected.

For cameras you have 3 levels to choose from:
Cheap but Good - Foscam
Medium Prices and Really Good - Duhau
Expensive and Really Good - Axis

Surveillance: You can use something like the Synology NAS to record your video but you have to buy a license for each camera, this can get expensive. I use the BlueIris software which cost $49 and I put it on an old Pentium D computer I had in the closet, I have it do the recording and send alerts to my phone and Vera.

Lights & Fans:
Fans: you can use the INSTEON FanLinc like some others have done on the forums, I am about to do this as well. Don’t ever use a dimmer on a Fan, you will burn the motor.
Lights: you can also look at using the “Aeon Labs Z-Wave Smart Energy Switch”, these go behind your existing switch and can also report the energy usage. I have a couple of these and will report back after I install them this weekend. I use the Intermatic 600 Dimmers and you can actually use them with LED’s and CFL’s if you put a resister in one of the lights. There is a thread on here with photos and instructions for installing one in a can lighting. I like these because you can just replace the main switch on a 3 and 4 way circuit and they work great. I also use the CA3000 but they are hard to find, they now recommend the Evolve On/Off switch at AutomatedAutolet.com

Security System: You have the right idea with the DSC system and the EVL-3 board connected to the network. I did this in about 30 minutes and vera picked up ever sensor on the system for doors/windows/motion and it allows me to remotely arm/disarm my system, including having Vera Disarm the alarm when my kids enter their PIN number on the Yale lock on the front door. Be sure to have them put in sensors for the Garage Doors as well. Then all you have to do is put a Z-Wave receptacle for the garage door opener and wire it to a 110v relay and to the garage door opener contacts. You can then use the Garage Door module in the App Store to control your garage door using the Receptacle to pulse the power to the relay and you can see if the door is open by using the sensors for the garage door through the alarm system.

Door Locks: I use the Yale Deadbolt locks, they work great. They now have a new one that doesn’t have a key whole at all only a number pad which I feel is actually safer. I have used 4 of these and the batter life is great, should last you at least 6 months if not more before it hits the 50% alert mark.

Overall I have had a blast with Vera, I stated with a Vera Lite, Thermostate and a deadbolt and it has grown each month. That is one of the best parts of doing it this way, you don’t have to lay down $5k+, you can start and just add a little each month until you get what you like. With each project you get more and more confidence to try another one. My next one is using the INSTEON FanLinc to control my fans better.

My Goal is to have every light/fan/door/window automated in this house before I sell it in a couple of years. As a RELTOR I can tell you, this will defiantly be a home buyers remember.

12

Chris H. Has provided good sound advice!

  • Garrett
13

I almost forgot, Add a Google TV into the mix and install garrettwp’s “AutHomation” android app on it and now you can see your camera’s and control your house from your 65" TV in the living room.

Only down side to this so far is getting a Decent GoogleTV STB. I got the most expensive Sony one thinking it would work out better but it didn’t, go for the $99 Co-Star or other version.

I have all my AV Inputs going into my Onkyo Receiver and then an HDMI going from my receiver to the GoogleTV STB then the TV. This allows my to overlay the AutHomtion app on top of what ever I’m watching so when the door bell rings I can pull up the front door camera and unlock the door. The sales rep told me the Sony GTV had ARC (Audio Return Channel) which means it should of sent the audio back down the HDMI cable to the receiver and out the speakers but he was wrong. I know better to listen to anyone at Best Buy but I really wanted my camera’s on my TV so I took the bait. My wife loves overlaying the Camera in the Baby’s room while we are watching TV to check on him. Much easier then reaching for your iPhone or iPad.

14

[quote=“Chris H., post:11, topic:175093”]I have automated my house, my dad’s house and his wifes office building, here are some notes from what I have found.

Thermostat: I personally use the Trane for my house and 2 of them at my dad’s house, I used 2 of the Honeywell for the office and they all work fine.

Cameras: I would run an ethernet cable to the ceiling of each room in the corner and put a jack there. Then I would get a Netgear (FS728TP-100NAS) 24 port PoE switch. This switch can detect on each port if they need power and if so how much and send it to it. You can then use the Foscam 8910 PoE Version and only have a small network cable running from the back of the camera to the network jack in the ceiling, for camera’s that don’t have PoE you can use a $15 PoE Splitter so you take a network cable from the jack in the ceiling to the splitter and then it brakes out a ethernet data cable and a small power cable to the camera. If you can, always run a network cable to your camera’s, only use WiFi if you have no other choice. You can also use the Foscam 9821w which is a 720p H.264 camera, this will work with vera fine I have one connected.

For cameras you have 3 levels to choose from:
Cheap but Good - Foscam
Medium Prices and Really Good - Duhau
Expensive and Really Good - Axis

Surveillance: You can use something like the Synology NAS to record your video but you have to buy a license for each camera, this can get expensive. I use the BlueIris software which cost $49 and I put it on an old Pentium D computer I had in the closet, I have it do the recording and send alerts to my phone and Vera.

Lights & Fans:
Fans: you can use the INSTEON FanLinc like some others have done on the forums, I am about to do this as well. Don’t ever use a dimmer on a Fan, you will burn the motor.
Lights: you can also look at using the “Aeon Labs Z-Wave Smart Energy Switch”, these go behind your existing switch and can also report the energy usage. I have a couple of these and will report back after I install them this weekend. I use the Intermatic 600 Dimmers and you can actually use them with LED’s and CFL’s if you put a resister in one of the lights. There is a thread on here with photos and instructions for installing one in a can lighting. I like these because you can just replace the main switch on a 3 and 4 way circuit and they work great. I also use the CA3000 but they are hard to find, they now recommend the Evolve On/Off switch at AutomatedAutolet.com

Security System: You have the right idea with the DSC system and the EVL-3 board connected to the network. I did this in about 30 minutes and vera picked up ever sensor on the system for doors/windows/motion and it allows me to remotely arm/disarm my system, including having Vera Disarm the alarm when my kids enter their PIN number on the Yale lock on the front door. Be sure to have them put in sensors for the Garage Doors as well. Then all you have to do is put a Z-Wave receptacle for the garage door opener and wire it to a 110v relay and to the garage door opener contacts. You can then use the Garage Door module in the App Store to control your garage door using the Receptacle to pulse the power to the relay and you can see if the door is open by using the sensors for the garage door through the alarm system.

Door Locks: I use the Yale Deadbolt locks, they work great. They now have a new one that doesn’t have a key whole at all only a number pad which I feel is actually safer. I have used 4 of these and the batter life is great, should last you at least 6 months if not more before it hits the 50% alert mark.

Overall I have had a blast with Vera, I stated with a Vera Lite, Thermostate and a deadbolt and it has grown each month. That is one of the best parts of doing it this way, you don’t have to lay down $5k+, you can start and just add a little each month until you get what you like. With each project you get more and more confidence to try another one. My next one is using the INSTEON FanLinc to control my fans better.

My Goal is to have every light/fan/door/window automated in this house before I sell it in a couple of years. As a RELTOR I can tell you, this will defiantly be a home buyers remember.[/quote]
Thank you! A couple of follow-up questions, if you don’t mind.

What Trane thermostat do you use?

Can I use the Intermatic CA600 dimmers as switches, too? For the 6 for $99 price, it’s still less expensive than anything else out there.

Is there a scene controller that works with the Intermatic dimmers? I see they have an Intermatic scene controller but it just allows for 1 scene (CA5100). I’d like something that allows for multiple scenes. And if it worked with the INSTEON FanLinc, that’d be great, too.

Which Yale lock do you recommend? And is there a hardwired version? Then I don’t have to worry at all about batteries, right?

Thanks again!!!

15

  • The intermatic dimmers are only able to work with incandescent bulbs and can not act as an on / off type switch.

  • You have a few options with scene controllers, you can use Leviton (expensive) or integrate insteon keypad linc’s if you are going the insteon route and using altsteon plugin.

  • Any of the trane thermostats should work that support the z-wave protocol.

  • I do not know of any hardwired type door locks. Most of them are batteries.

  • Garrett

16

[quote=“jswim788, post:10, topic:175093”]The Foscam cameras are good value for the price, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they are good with Vera. Yes, the integration is decent, but what do you intend to do with it? You can’t record video with Vera, and you are likely to find that the Foscam’s motion detection is average at best. In some situations it is fine, but you are likely to get lots of false triggers. Not so good for motion detect.

For motion detection, you are likely better off investing in one of the alarm systems and connecting that to Vera.

And for video surveillance, I suspect you are better off with something like Blue Iris. Better motion detection, video recording, overlays, etc. Unfortunately that means you need a PC running Windows.

Other opinions on this?

Good luck.[/quote]

Thanks! Blue Iris is just software, right? So, I’d pair it with a Foscam camera? I’m planning to use the camera mostly for security (and as a baby monitor during the baby years).

17

[quote=“peterluc8080, post:8, topic:175093”]@Greenhighlighter

Hi,

First, yes you can use about any magnetic sensor with the DSC alarm panel and about any wire motion detector. So you just need to bring a wire from your alarm panel to each place you want to place a magnectic or motion sensor. Use a 4 wire telephone cable. It’s cheap and work great. Each motion detector will use 4 wires, one for power, one for ground and the other two for the contact. The magnetic sensor only use two wires but don’t bother and just put 4 wires telephone cable.

Yes, for camera, use a foscam. There are cheap and the support on the forum is great. I will check if one is better than the other tomorrow, but I have a fews F18910W and they work great.

For the thermostat, you need to check if you are using a normal HAVC thermostat. A HAVC thermostat use 24v to control. If you have a thermostat like that, you need to verify if you have the good wires behind the thermostat. Check to see if you have a few small cable. Look if you see a green, yellow, white, black wire. If you only see a normal 240v or 120v AC cable for a electric heater near windows, you CANNOT directly connect the 24v. thermostat to it. You will burn your house! If your thermostat control a electric heater with high AC voltage, you need to buy a small transfo from AUBE RC-84… I don’t remember the name, will check tomorrow, and then connect the 24v. Thermostat to it.

Hope it help! I will post you the information I don’t remenber tomorrow

Peter[/quote]

Any update?

And any thoughts about using a PoE camera?