GFCI tripped alert

Does anyone know of a way I can use z-wave to alert me of a tripped GFCI receptacle? After some significant rain, I noticed my sump pump had not gone off in a while. When I went to check it, I found the plug was tripped. I have a water sensor there to alert me if the sump overflows, however, I would like to avoid this situation all together. Thanks in advance.

-ss

You can make a sensor to do this.

You would need to have a relay that is powered by the GFCI circuit.
This relay can hook up to a sensor (such as a Z-Wave door sensor) that would trip when the relay looses power.

Super easy way is to put an AC powered device like an appliance or lamp module (rated for at least the load the pump draws) between the pump and outlet (assuming the pump connects to an outlet) then setup an alert when the zwave device drops off the network (when the circuit trips).

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Or like Richard said, you could use a relay pretty easily.

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[quote=“RichardTSchaefer, post:2, topic:191341”]You can make a sensor to do this.

You would need to have a relay that is powered by the GFCI circuit.
This relay can hook up to a sensor (such as a Z-Wave door sensor) that would trip when the relay looses power.[/quote]

Hmmmmm, that sounds a bit above my pay grade.

[quote=“JasonJoel, post:3, topic:191341”]Super easy way is to put an AC powered device like an appliance or lamp module (rated for at least the load the pump draws) between the pump and outlet (assuming the pump connects to an outlet) then setup an alert when the zwave device drops off the network (when the circuit trips).

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk[/quote]

Yes, this sounds doable. I understand this :slight_smile:

Thanks!

[quote=“SpecialSwell, post:6, topic:191341”][quote=“JasonJoel, post:3, topic:191341”]Super easy way is to put an AC powered device like an appliance or lamp module (rated for at least the load the pump draws) between the pump and outlet (assuming the pump connects to an outlet) then setup an alert when the zwave device drops off the network (when the circuit trips).

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk[/quote]

Yes, this sounds doable. I understand this :slight_smile:

Thanks![/quote]

Glad you do, as I don’t. Do get an alert when a “Z-wave device drops off the network”? This doesn’t exist as far as I know. What your looking for has been asked many times in a different form. The question is usually how do I detect a power outage? And your question is the same.

Z-wave doesn’t ping or report instant issue when “dropped off the zwave network”. A relay is a easy solution as Richard pointed out and cost around 30-40 bucks and is wireless as it uses a z-wave door/window sensor that is triggered by a relay which is plugged into an outlet maybe via a phone charger or wall wort.

If that is to much You can use the ping sensor plugin to ping a device that is on the network. Well if that device was say a small raspberry pi or any other electronic internet device (that responds to pings) and is was powered by the outlet your trying to watch, when power goes off that device will stop responding to pings and trip in vera within a few secs.

If you have more questions on either you can ask or you can search the forums for how to detect powerloss or power outage for other answers to your question.

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:7, topic:191341”][quote=“SpecialSwell, post:6, topic:191341”][quote=“JasonJoel, post:3, topic:191341”]Super easy way is to put an AC powered device like an appliance or lamp module (rated for at least the load the pump draws) between the pump and outlet (assuming the pump connects to an outlet) then setup an alert when the zwave device drops off the network (when the circuit trips).

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk[/quote]

Yes, this sounds doable. I understand this :slight_smile:

Thanks![/quote]

Glad you do, as I don’t. Do get an alert when a “Z-wave device drops off the network”? This doesn’t exist as far as I know. What your looking for has been asked many times in a different form. The question is usually how do I detect a power outage? And your question is the same.

Z-wave doesn’t ping or report instant issue when “dropped off the zwave network”. A relay is a easy solution as Richard pointed out and cost around 30-40 bucks and is wireless as it uses a z-wave door/window sensor that is triggered by a relay which is plugged into an outlet maybe via a phone charger or wall wort.

If that is to much You can use the ping sensor plugin to ping a device that is on the network. Well if that device was say a small raspberry pi or any other electronic internet device (that responds to pings) and is was powered by the outlet your trying to watch, when power goes off that device will stop responding to pings and trip in vera within a few secs.

If you have more questions on either you can ask or you can search the forums for how to detect powerloss or power outage for other answers to your question.[/quote]

Ya, I guess I spoke too soon. When I added an extra appliance module I had sitting around to my network, I could not figure out how to make it notify me for a dropped signal (like you just said). Spending $40+ is not an issue and I am eager to tinker, within my limits. When you say a relay, do you mean something like this unit or the AEON micro controller? Also, I am not sure how this would be combined with a door/window sensor to detect power loss. I’ve been using a veralight for a few years now and have (at least I think) a pretty good understanding of things, but no where near the level of most of you guys on this forum.

I think the others are suggesting a standard AC relay, costing less than $5. Like what a lot of us made (and still have installed) to control our garage doors before z-wave kits became available. Here is a video I used to understand how to do the garage door. www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8RtzUgupDI For the power out/sump pump application you would turn it around a bit. Instead of the lamp cord being pulled into a z-wave switch, it would be plugged directly into the outlet you want to monitor. The closed contact end would be plugged into the closed contact inputs of a door/window sensor instead of the garage door system.

So as long as the AC is powering the relay, the closed contacts remain closed, and hence Vera shows the door/window sensor as secure, hence as if the “window” is closed. When the power fails, the system will show as if the window just opened, on which you can trigger an alert…

[quote=“wilme2, post:9, topic:191341”]I think the others are suggesting a standard AC relay, costing less than $5. Like what a lot of us made (and still have installed) to control our garage doors before z-wave kits became available. Here is a video I used to understand how to do the garage door. www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8RtzUgupDI For the power out/sump pump application you would turn it around a bit. Instead of the lamp cord being pulled into a z-wave switch, it would be plugged directly into the outlet you want to monitor. The closed contact end would be plugged into the closed contact inputs of a door/window sensor instead of the garage door system.

So as long as the AC is powering the relay, the closed contacts remain closed, and hence Vera shows the door/window sensor as secure, hence as if the “window” is closed. When the power fails, the system will show as if the window just opened, on which you can trigger an alert…[/quote]

You only mentioned 5.00 but I thought it would be fair to include a 25.00 to 30.00ish z-wave door/window sensor to your equation as that would be required and costs alot more then 5.00, just so people don’t get the wrong idea that its 5.00 from scratch.

I also know that some people (know your limits!) don’t trust or shouldn’t trust themselves working with high voltage or 120v. There is low voltage 6-12v options for a few bucks more to prevent a simple task from turning into a bigger issue if your not comfortable. Just use a old phone charger, or any old wall wort instead of directly putting a light cord in the outlet to the 120v relay and use a 6-12v relay instead of a 120v relay. Relays are the same cost, but it would be an extra wall wort if you don’t have one.

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:10, topic:191341”]You only mentioned 5.00 but I thought it would be fair to include a 25.00 to 30.00ish z-wave door/window sensor to your equation as that would be required and costs alot more then 5.00, just so people don’t get the wrong idea that its 5.00 from scratch.

I also know that some people (know your limits!) don’t trust or shouldn’t trust themselves working with high voltage or 120v. There is low voltage 6-12v options for a few bucks more to prevent a simple task from turning into a bigger issue if your not comfortable. Just use a old phone charger, or any old wall wort instead of directly putting a light cord in the outlet to the 120v relay and use a 6-12v relay instead of a 120v relay. Relays are the same cost, but it would be an extra wall wort if you don’t have one.[/quote]

Agreed. And add in a few bucks for a “project box” or something similar to enclose the relay and wiring so that wiring is not exposed and the project looks professional…

Now that you are all following my suggestion … It might be possible to use any ZWave device plugged into the GFCI

Then you can possibly done of the following:

  1. poll it and see if you can detect a polling failure.
  2. Command a switch to toggle and look for a failure.

I believe there are some device properties that change on a failure.

I would use PLEG on a periodic schedule to poll or toggle the device as well as check for failures.

[quote=“RichardTSchaefer, post:12, topic:191341”]Now that you are all following my suggestion …

I would use PLEG on a periodic schedule to poll or toggle the device as well as check for failures.[/quote]

How did I know your suggestion was going to involve PLEG? ;D

What’s next sent the Alert via “VERA ALERTS”? ::slight_smile:

I don’t like this solution, but…

You could schedule a poll and then look at the AllRoutesFailed device property. It should go from 0 to 1 when polled after the device loses power.

I think that a better solution is to set the flood sensor sufficiently low that it alarms very shortly after the pump fails to come on.

Sorry, I meant to add that as well.

Here is ready made solution that could be coupled with an EcoLink door/windows sensor -

[url=http://www.powerswitchtail.com/Pages/PowerStateTail.aspx]http://www.powerswitchtail.com/Pages/PowerStateTail.aspx[/url]

[quote=“shward1, post:16, topic:191341”]Here is ready made solution that could be coupled with an EcoLink door/windows sensor -

[url=http://www.powerswitchtail.com/Pages/PowerStateTail.aspx]http://www.powerswitchtail.com/Pages/PowerStateTail.aspx[/url][/quote]

Actually, now that I read it closer I see that it detects the load not the source.

Yeah, my advice wasn’t good. Sorry about that - I didn’t think it all the way through, and wasn’t in front of my Vera. :thinking:

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Here is something I threw together when I got home tonight with some extra parts I had on hand -

Parts:

[ul][li]Monoprice Door and Window Sensor [/li]
[li]3V Wall Transformer (Not exactly the same one I used, but wanted to give a link to something that will work with Prime shipping)[/li][/ul]

In the attached picture you can see where I attached the positive and negative outputs from the wall adapter to the z-wave sensor.

Very simple to assemble and costs less than $40.

When the wall adapter has AC power the device indicates a Not Triggered status, when AC is not present the device indicates an Triggered status.

Update: I’ve attached another picture of the assembled unit. I decided to solder down the ground, but you can also use the pin I showed in the other picture. Also, if you want to solder the ground try not to melt the plastic case like I did ;D.

HI,

If the sensor placed low in the well is not a sollution, perhaps a wall wart connected to a MinoLite. This is a few $$ more than the relay but the construction is simple.

BTW I have no experience with the MinoLite, I’m assuming it works as advertised.

JohnRob