Attempting to replace some exterior lights with GE z-wave. The 3 lights are wired through a 4-way switch configuration that I’ve (done my best to) describe below.
I’m using 12722 with 12723 add-ons.
I believe that my line and load are both connected to switch 1 and thats where I’ll place the 12722. What I don’t follow yet is that theres no neutral to pig tail off at switch 3. Can anyone confirm that my diagram is correct for a proper 4-way switch installation and if I’m able to use the GE z-wave switches here?
Can’t really say if you’ve diagrammed it correctly or not. The diagram looks valid, but who knows what you really have.
The first thing you need to do is eliminate the question mark. Is it load or is it not load. You must know this with certainty.
Assuming your diagram is correct and that is the load, then you should have no problem connecting it like in the attached diagram. Just connect the third switch to Traveler and Neutral from the second switch.
Any tips on determining the load line with a multimeter? Could I check for resistance in some way?
Also, I don’t seem to have a neutral at switch 3. The common wire there is black w\ white strip and I’m not sure where that originates. Must be a junction box somewhere…
[quote=“vinelodge, post:3, topic:191000”]Any tips on determining the load line with a multimeter? Could I check for resistance in some way?
Also, I don’t seem to have a neutral at switch 3. The common wire there is black w\ white strip and I’m not sure where that originates. Must be a junction box somewhere…
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Line had power on it (120v) coming from the breaker (when it’s on). Load it wire going to light bulb, with the switch off or disconnected it should not have any power on it.
With everything turned off and disconnected on all ends. You can also do resistance tests on ends of the wires to see which goes where.
Because the neutral only exists at Switch location 1 you would have to install the “connected” switch there.
If you want to double check your Line / load cables I would suggest a Neon Tester like the GE Model # 52060. They are only a few bucks and are much safer than using a lamp. Plus they can check 220 V lines.
@JohnRob - They still sell test neon testers? There’s no doubt that they served me well for years. But if I was recommending a similar tool, it would be a no-contact voltage tester.
@vinelodge - If I can’t immediately and accurately deduce the wiring with a no-contact voltage tester I use a multimeter in continuity mode with a long wire.
Truth be told I often use a toner, but most people don’t have those and they can “lie” or really confuse you if you’re not familiar with their use.
Your white and black should be the opposite end of the white in switch 2. Assuming your diagram is correct, all the whites, except the one in the Line romex, should be taped. In that diagram they all carry line current when a switch is On.
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