I have to say that this plugin is awesome!!! Thanks so much
Richard:
Thanks for the help!!
I am up and running with a stable garage door system.
For those using low voltage wiring (12v relay), which is what I’m going with, how do I determine the amperage needed? Is it safer to go with a lower one? Do I need a multi-tester to determine this? Thanks!
[quote=“curiousB, post:116, topic:166907”]Here is how I controlled garage door via Vera. $20 in parts. Low voltage wiring (CLass 2) so I don’t violate NEC.
Works great. Added a camera for added safety.
Update…
Modified scene to trigger upon detection of the receptacle being turned on. Wait 2 seconds then turn off the receptacle. I never run this scene just have it running in the back ground. Whenever I “turn on” the garage door it automatically turns off a couple seconds later. This simulates a button press.[/quote]
The control current is measured in milli-amps … that’s .001 amp.
In Australia we don’t have any z-wave relays or z-wave powerpoints / receptacles so it’s difficult to automate the garage door.
However I’ve just placed an order for this garage door opener DIY kit from Smart Living Australia, looks very easy to install and all low voltage http://www.smartliving.com.au/zwave-garage-door-kit.html
Might be useful for fellow Aussies here…
Search for fibaro products and global cache in your region.
u can use the Evolve LFM-20 correct? do i have to use any other relays, or can i plug the LFM-20 directly into a power source and wire it directly to the push buttons and garage unit?
You can connect a LFM-20 directly to your garage door contacts … the relay contacts (blue wires) are isolated from the power circuit.
perfect. ordered!
i just have to create a scene to open my Yale lock and make sure the relay turns off after 5 seconds…right?
The ‘Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module’ looks like it would be a great replacement for the default garage door button.
I would make it more like 1 or 2 seconds. Some garage doors will stop if the button is held too long.
[quote=“samco38”]In Australia we don’t have any z-wave relays or z-wave powerpoints / receptacles so it’s difficult to automate the garage door.
However I’ve just placed an order for this garage door opener DIY kit from Smart Living Australia, looks very easy to install and all low voltage http://www.smartliving.com.au/zwave-garage-door-kit.html
Might be useful for fellow Aussies here…[/quote]
This is exactly the setup I described in post 53 of this thread 
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300TG using Tapatalk 4
I have been following this thread in the hopes that I could learn all I needed to before attempting this myself, but I do have one question/issue that is probably specific to my setup.
My plan is to install the aeon labs door/window switch and the LFM-80 to operate my door. I went out tonight to look at how my setup is wired, and discovered an issue. I have liftmaster motors and on my wall mounted switch I have he ability to also control the light and “lock” the door so it won’t open via the remote. I was going to find the wires that open/close the door and put the LFM80 between those wires and the motor, however I discovered that there are on,y 2 actual control wires going into the motor from the switch/control. That means somehow the controller is able to send a different signal to the motor telling it to open/close or to operate the light, etc and if I put the LFM80 between the controller and the motor I don’t know what result I will get if I activate it. I don’t know that the LFM80 will be compatible with my setup now.
I want to add the Zwave but I need my wall mounted switch to work too. I have to imagine there are others out there with similar setups that encountered he same type of issue. The garage opener is from 2009. Anyone know how to isolate the signal from this style switch and manipulate it with a contact closure ?
I installed the garage door app and I’m having issues with it. When the door is open the button on the controller in the garage has no power, but when I close the door it works again. If I use the scene I created it has power when open, but for some reason when I use the scene to open the door it’ll stop about 1/3 of the way up. If I press it again it’ll open and when I close it it’ll close just fine. The iPhone app freezes up a lot and crashes too. I’m new to all of this so any help I appreciated.
[quote=“DaveH28, post:153, topic:166907”]…I have liftmaster motors and on my wall mounted switch I have he ability to also control the light and “lock” the door so it won’t open via the remote. I was going to find the wires that open/close the door and put the LFM80 between those wires and the motor, however I discovered that there are on,y 2 actual control wires going into the motor from the switch/control. That means somehow the controller is able to send a different signal to the motor telling it to open/close or to operate the light, etc and if I put the LFM80 between the controller and the motor I don’t know what result I will get if I activate it. I don’t know that the LFM80 will be compatible with my setup now.
… Anyone know how to isolate the signal from this style switch and manipulate it with a contact closure ?[/quote]
I have the same problem but so far just live with it. Both the wall and my ZWave relay can open and close the door. The relay NO contacts are wired in parallel with the door switch module. The hiccup I have is that the wall switch effectively gets power cycled each time I control the GDoor from Vera so the real time clock is always flashing as if a power failure occurred. Maybe this winter I’ll open up the wall unit and solder two wires to the switches for the open toggle bar but I can’t be bothered for now. Anyway the opener is located where I have the relay and running another pair of wires to the wall switch is a pain for me.
[quote=“samco38, post:145, topic:166907”]In Australia we don’t have any z-wave relays or z-wave powerpoints / receptacles so it’s difficult to automate the garage door.
However I’ve just placed an order for this garage door opener DIY kit from Smart Living Australia, looks very easy to install and all low voltage http://www.smartliving.com.au/zwave-garage-door-kit.html
Might be useful for fellow Aussies here…[/quote]
I’m in Aus too, I picked up a Fibaro Switch Relay 1x3kW from the interwebs (not sure on rules about posting links) . It can use 240V but I used an old 24V DC power pack to power it. Then just ran the IN and OUT to my garage terminals, doesn’t matter which way you run these but DO make sure the active and nuetral are right from your power source or you will blow the unit up. I just send an ON and OFF with a 500ms delay in between (I use open remote). When the unit is switched to on it basically closes the circuit (IN and OUT) which simulates pushing the button in, then the OFF simulates the release of the button. There might be cheaper ways to achieve this but this was by far the easiest way to do it for me. The module cost $75 and a little box from Jaycar to house it in cost about $3.
Given that the zwave devices in Australia are all more or less the same price I don’t think you could do it any cheaper anyway.
Cheers
Nick.
From CuriousB:
“I have the same problem but so far just live with it. Both the wall and my ZWave relay can open and close the door. The relay NO contacts are wired in parallel with the door switch module. The hiccup I have is that the wall switch effectively gets power cycled each time I control the GDoor from Vera so the real time clock is always flashing as if a power failure occurred. Maybe this winter I’ll open up the wall unit and solder two wires to the switches for the open toggle bar but I can’t be bothered for now. Anyway the opener is located where I have the relay and running another pair of wires to the wall switch is a pain for me.”
It would seem to me that that the easiest way to fix this would be to use the zwave relay to short the switch contacts on a spare wireless remote. This gets around the problem of screwing up your liftmaster control wires (which deliver power to the control panel and several signals back to the lift motor) You could put the relay almost anywhere with convenient power.
Also - I haven’t futzed around with it yet, but you could probably put a medium sized capacitor between the remote switch and the relay to force the action to be momentary, and never stuck “on”, so you would never permanently disrupt door operation.
[quote=“rwalker, post:91, topic:166907”]Need some advice…
I have 2 garage doors both wired in series to my DSC alarm. I want to be able to remotely open/close them both. Seems like there are lots of ways to do this, so would like the cheapest and most reliable option. I realize since they are both wired to a single sensor that I won’t be able to use any of the combo plug-ins.
- Z-wave outlet with 110v relay. ($35 x 2 + $10 x 2 = $90)
- 2 x LFM20 switches ($60 x 2 = $120)
- 2 x ZFM80 switches ($50 x 2 = $100)
- GC Itach unit ($120)
I am leaning towards option 1 as it will require the least wiring and work. Anyone had issues with the newer openers (going to replace mine) and their wall control units in conjunction with this?
Thanks,
Roy[/quote]
excuse my ignorance but can I use option 1 with the garage door plugin?
excuse my ignorance but can I use option 1 with the garage door plugin?
In the context of this discussion … two garage doors with a single sensor for door status … the answer is NO.
[quote=“RichardTSchaefer, post:159, topic:166907”]
excuse my ignorance but can I use option 1 with the garage door plugin?
In the context of this discussion … two garage doors with a single sensor for door status … the answer is NO.[/quote]
I apologize. I meant outside of the context of that discussion. Just a single door using option 1. I’m about to run to home depot/radio shack to get the necessary pieces for a single door. It would be nice if I can incorporate this plugin.