Thanks damianr, I’ll get one that has the neutral and give it a shot!
I unfortunately bought a few of these as well before realizing that I could not dim my LED bulbs properly. Since I cannot return them, I’ve been forced to switch back to 40w incandescents. 
The dummy load idea is interesting. A few years back, I tried several types of LED bulbs on my Leviton VRI06 z-wave dimmers and ended up returning them all except four utilitech pro 100 W lamps that seemed to work on one dimmer if I used four at a time (too expensive to put in other rooms at 4x$40). These were the ONLY lamps I tried that were acceptable, and I needed four per dimmer!
A few years later, the dimmer still works fine, so I decided to find a cheaper alternative for my other rooms. I found the new Cree 75W LED works great, as does the more expensive Cree TrueWhite CRI-93 60W lamp. I hear no buzzing with the Cree, and there’s an acceptable variation in brightness (maybe 10% to 100%). Best of all, if I turn the dimmer down to 1%, nothing bad happens, even with one Cree 75W LED installed it sets there at about 10% brightness quietly shining!
Unfortunately, the under $10 Cree 9.5W (60W equivalent) lamps flicker and seem unstable, but for another $5, these 75W lamps are worth it. Am I missing something by not using a dummy load though? Is it a known fact these lamps are going to shorten my dimmers lifespan?
I have the $10 Crees from Home depot in single lamps on lamp modules that work fine. I also have a ceiling figure in my master bath with 2 of them that run off of the Leviton VRI dimmers (no neutral) that work just fine as well.
I should post which lamps instead of just stating the price (since prices vary depending on utility subsidies):
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cree-60W-Equivalent-Soft-White-2700K-A19-Dimmable-LED-Light-Bulb-BA19-08027OMF-12DE26-2U100/204592770
Note the model number I tried is Model # BA19-08027OMF-12DE26-2U100 and I tried 2 and 3 at a time with Leviton VRI06 dimmers.
They flickered too much at low brightness, so I just returned all of them and bought these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cree-75W-Equivalent-Soft-White-2700K-A19-Dimmable-LED-Light-Bulb-BA19-11027OMF-12DE26-1U100/204715054
Model # BA19-11027OMF-12DE26-1U100
It sucks that Home Depot reuses the store SKU for different versions of the same bulb (I think the one we are talking about has 4 different model numbers and one store SKU!?!). I think we probably tried different versions of the same bulb. Mine was the newest one in the store as of last week… The 75W bulb is a much better bulb IMHO as it has a bigger heat sink, which should mean longer life if you dim the bulb. It has more light output too and was the brightest LED I could find locally that is also rated for enclosed fixtures.
I also found a solution for those candle E12 lights where you have extra space and just want more light:
http://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-E12-E26-E27-Adapter/dp/B00AJ566A4/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415925463&sr=1-2&keywords=e12+to+e26+adapter
One can extend a fixture cover down using threaded lamp pipe and a nipple. I couldn’t find 3 60W LED E12 candelabra lamps that worked well enough with the VRI06, so I’m just going to get the E12 to E26 adapters and use 3 75W Cree lamps after bringing the globe down 1.5". This seems much cheaper than replacing the fixture + dimmer + coordinating dimmer remote.
I have the $10 Crees from Home depot in single lamps on lamp modules that work fine. I also have a ceiling figure in my master bath with 2 of them that run off of the Leviton VRI dimmers (no neutral) that work just fine as well.[/quote]
Yup… Unless they changed how they are made, mine work fine. I might have one still in packaging to check the model number against but I have zero flickering with any of my Cree bulbs.
Edit… I just checked and my model number ends in 1U100 not 2U100. Looks like they may have changed something.
Absolutely…saftey always comes first. The final install will be using aluminum cased 1.5K thermal resistors (picture below).
They can be mounted in the lighting can or in our case we are remote mounting them to an aluminum plate that forms a great heat sink. These should not be used inside a wall switch or in a plastic enclosure…this is where common sense needs to be used.
I will post a finished photo tomorrow … end results are stable dimming rates and No Flicker for 10 different styles and brands of LED Lighting! The lights still cannot go below a 10% dim…thats where they stop but the benefits are obvious. We have switched to an EcoSmart 9 watt (40 watt equivalent) LED bulb and they are working great for general overhead lighting in our yachts. These put out 3,000 K light temp and I wish I could get them closer to 2500…just a little more yellow would make them perfect.
Regards
Tim Alls
AllSeas Yachts[/quote]
Thanks Tim! I did exactly as you stated and my leds are dimming great. For others, I had 4 x 9.5 watt leds from Home Depot and my GE dimmer has a 40 watt incandescent (resistive) minimum load. From time to time I’d get flickering of my lights but by adding the resister they look perfect!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi,
I wonder if anyone can help me.
I tried to use the information in this thread to sort my Dimmable LED issue out.
I am in the UK, so am operating on 240V.
I have a 8 GU10 light fittings in my lounge. These are configured in 4 Pairs and go back to a NJD DPX4/10 Dimmer pack (so 4 circuits):
Diagram of Lounge Configuration:
[url=http://www.tivoland.com/ebaypics/LoungeLightingDiagram.png]http://www.tivoland.com/ebaypics/LoungelightingDiagram.png[/url]
![http://www.tivoland.com/ebaypics/LoungelightingDiagram.png[/url]](http://www.tivoland.com/ebaypics/LoungelightingDiagram.png%5B/url%5D){kind=link}
Dimmer Pack:
https://www.electrovision.co.uk/homepage.aspx?com=product&pg=1801&productid=3669&tl=1182&bp=0#pagefocus
I have swapped out traditional 50W Halogen Bulbs for Dimmable 4.5W LED’s, so a total of 9W is running on each output circuit of the Dimmer Pack:
LED’s:
http://www.ledhut.co.uk/home-page-bestsellers/new-4-5-watt-gu10-led-350-lumens.html
I tried to order some 3K 25W Chassis Resistors from a local supplier but they sent the wrong ones, I ended up with 4K7 25W 5%
I decided to install these anyway as after reading through the thread, there seemed to be some ambiguity as to what would work in the UK on 240V anyway so call me the guinea pig 
I installed one of these resistors in parallel on the Dimmer Packs output line (to the GU10’s) across the Neutral & Live on each circuit output.
The result was the LED’s work fine with negligible flicker and also DIM through the levels I had already programmed for the previous Halogen bulbs which I was ecstatic over.
Trouble is, my satisfaction was short lived, after being on for something between 30 mins to 1 hour , I noticed a burning smell coming from the Dimmer Pack. I cut the power off whilst everything was still working fine.
I haven’t had chance to take it apart and inspect yet (thats a job for tomorrow).
Anyone know what could be wrong because I think my implementation was ok from a working standpoint anyway 
Attached is a pic of the Resistors installed at the top of the dimmer pack. I chose not to mount them on the metal chassis due to space but could it be simply that they were getting too hot that was making the smell?
[url=http://www.tivoland.com/ebaypics/DPX4ResistorInstall.JPG]http://www.tivoland.com/ebaypics/DPX4ResistorInstall.JPG[/url]
![http://www.tivoland.com/ebaypics/DPX4ResistorInstall.JPG[/url]](http://www.tivoland.com/ebaypics/DPX4ResistorInstall.JPG%5B/url%5D){kind=link}
Ok, whilst waiting for a few days moderation, I had time to investigate.
I’d already decided the implementation was probably sound due to the fact that nothing had blown or stopped working and on further inspection, I discovered the plastic on the “chock-block” connectors I used to make the connections was melting from the heat of the resistors causing the smell.
I revisited the installation and mounted the resistors on the lid of the dimmer pack and soldered the connections this time.
I’ve been monitoring the heat and it seems perfectly acceptable. The case is doing a good job of aiding dissipation, it gets quite hot to touch literally where the resistors are mounted after the lights have been on full brightness for a few hours, but it does seem to plato out to a level that I wouldn’t deem a danger.
UPDATE:
Ok, It appears I have an over-heating problem with this solution when using the LEDs on full brightness levels.
My lights are cutting out after a period of time, presumably the dimmer pack has a thermal cut-out.
Upon observation after such an incident, the case is very hot and if allowed to cool down, starts to operate again there-after.
As there have been no replies to this thread since I started this project, I think I am going to have to concede defeat and look for an alternative solution as I have exhausted my knowledge of what has been previously written.
Also, to be honest anything that generates this kind of heat makes me think this was never going to be a particularly efficient solution.
Maybe this is a very stupid question but can’t find the answer:
I have about 6 of these fibaro bypass resistors in place. If the light is out, do they actually consume power? if yes, how much?
the bypass is rated 1w at full load, and I only need it when there is no neutral in the switch’s box
Sylvain
Apologies for reviving an ancient thread.
I purchased an 25W 1.5kΩ 1% tolerance resistor (this one), and wired it in parallel with an LED downlight in one of my ceiling cans. It didn’t do much to reduce buzzing, although it did seem to help with the flickering issues I’ve been experiencing. However, after a couple hours of operation, it got extremely hot; the heatsink on the resistor measured 300 degrees F (150 degrees C), according to the temperature probe on my multimeter.
Is anyone else experiencing these kinds of heat issues? I was extremely uncomfortable transforming a ceiling can into a miniature oven, so I took the resistor out.
Here’s some info on my system:
[ul][li]Voltage: 110 (US)[/li]
[li]Lights: Cree TW-series recessed LED downlights[/li]
[li]Switch:Cooper RF9540[/li]
[li]Resistor: Vishay RH0251K500FC02[/li][/ul]
25 watts is too high. It’s going to get very hot. As the post previous to yours states, they use a 1 watt resistor and only when the dimmer has no Neutral.
The Cooper RF9540 uses a Neutral and does not require resistors. It is also made specifically to handle LED bulbs and should have no problem with a Cree bulb.
What’s buzzing, the switch or the bulb? That switch/bulb combination should work without flickering or buzzing without any resistors. If the bulb is buzzing, I would suggest that you try a different bulb. I have had a couple of defective Cree bulbs in the past.
i was really amazed buy founding a solution for my problem
but i need to get sure of some points before trying to use two 10W 3.3k resistor to each channel connected to LED spots
my dimmer is 400W/channel (philips Dynalite DDLE802)
shall i use the same two 10W 3.3k resistors or should be changed as its 400W not 1000W?
can i connect these resistors between one of the spots terminals or legs in the circuit?
what about the heat results from dimming on these resistors?
There’s an interesting dummy load solution here: LED ghosting fixed with 59¢ 4 watt dummy load;fix LED lamps that won't turn off with dimmer;leds dim - YouTube
It may or may not work for your situation.