I think at a first guess you should aim to pass the same current. On 230V you should expect to dissipate twice the power, therefore.
On second thought that right
Wow- this thread is great! Im glad that I stumbled on it. For months now, I have had the issue that my LED lights dont turn off fully. Does anybody have a recommendation as to whether this will fix that problem and are there any pics of anybody installing these resistors in a recessed can?
It should fix the problem…use a regular light in the circuit with the LED lights to confirm it. Use a 7 to 10 watt bulb and that will help calculate the size of your resistor…I will take a photo of the resistor in the can today if I can.
As mentioned earlier no one has tested this on a 220 volt circuit…the wattage rating of the resistor should be doubled and the resistance doubled from mine but I am speculating…someone good with electronics try it and give us the Euro Solution!
Regards
Tim Alls
This is the low-tech solution I implemented last week. Everywhere I’m using LED lights, I have a place to surreptitiously plug in one of these into the circuit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300657150822
$4 night light from eBay
It should fix the problem…use a regular light in the circuit with the LED lights to confirm it. Use a 7 to 10 watt bulb and that will help calculate the size of your resistor…I will take a photo of the resistor in the can today if I can.
As mentioned earlier no one has tested this on a 220 volt circuit…the wattage rating of the resistor should be doubled and the resistance doubled from mine but I am speculating…someone good with electronics try it and give us the Euro Solution!
Regards
Tim Alls[/quote]
Yep - with a 1 regular bulb in line, the other 7 watt led works like a charm. Groovy! Now i just need to figure out how to best set it up. Thanks!
It should fix the problem…use a regular light in the circuit with the LED lights to confirm it. Use a 7 to 10 watt bulb and that will help calculate the size of your resistor…I will take a photo of the resistor in the can today if I can.
As mentioned earlier no one has tested this on a 220 volt circuit…the wattage rating of the resistor should be doubled and the resistance doubled from mine but I am speculating…someone good with electronics try it and give us the Euro Solution!
Regards
Tim Alls[/quote]
BTW, after re-reading this entire thread for the bazzilionth time, I’m still amazed at how much you have contributed… and how much I still dont understand. Tim, I think you deserve “Super” as an addition to your forum status.
[quote=“DeltaNu1142, post:65, topic:170342”]This is the low-tech solution I implemented last week. Everywhere I’m using LED lights, I have a place to surreptitiously plug in one of these into the circuit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300657150822
$4 night light from eBay[/quote]
Interesting solution. How do you “stealthily” install these into the circuit? And yes… I did have to look up the definition of surreptitiously.
[quote=“TimAlls, post:34, topic:170342”]My resistors came in yesterday…here is how I am curing the LED flickering issue on ten different dimmers. Remote mounted dummy loads, 1K or about 10 watts added to the output of Leviton 1000W Dimmers.
More to come.
Regards
Tim Alls
AllSeas Yachts[/quote]
You stated that you installed 10W resistors, but the resistors pictured and the link you had posted earlier to purchase them are 25W resistors. 10W works for my system so what 10W resistors would be suitable for me? link please, thank you!.
Well, it’s not that interesting… 
Everywhere I’m using LEDs, it’s for accent lighting, plugged into a hidden receptacle. If/when I upgrade to ceiling fixtures, I’ll be looking back to this thread for info.
[quote=“eurofiles, post:69, topic:170342”][quote=“TimAlls, post:34, topic:170342”]My resistors came in yesterday…here is how I am curing the LED flickering issue on ten different dimmers. Remote mounted dummy loads, 1K or about 10 watts added to the output of Leviton 1000W Dimmers.
More to come.
Regards
Tim Alls
AllSeas Yachts[/quote]
You stated that you installed 10W resistors, but the resistors pictured and the link you had posted earlier to purchase them are 25W resistors. 10W works for my system so what 10W resistors would be suitable for me? link please, thank you!.[/quote]
The resistors create a 10 watt load…I am using 25 watt rated resistors just to make sure they can easily dissipate the heat!
Here is the math for thoses that are unsure…
First leave one small light bulb in the circuit with the LEDs…a 7 or 10 watt perhaps. See if your problem goes away. If it goes away with a 7 watt light bulb then here is the formula…
First calculate the amperage draw on a 7 watt light bulb…(watts = amps * volts) (amps = watts / volts) so 7 = amps * 120 if your voltage is 120 …so the amperage draw needed is .0583
Based on the amperage draw calculate the resistance of the circuit using ohms law ( resistance = voltage / amperage ) or resistance is about 1406 or 1.406 K
Remember to use your voltage when doing this 120 or 240
Remember to use a resistor that is rated for more than your needs…in this case a 25 watt resistor will be larger and handle the heat better.
I hope that helps!
@RighteousDude80 thanks for the pep talk!
There are so many manufacturers…the more feedback the better off for all of us.
Regards
Tim
P.S. don’t burn your house down! Use a qualified electrician if you aren’t an electronic hacker…
It’s worth repeating that the ratings for high power resistors are based on the resistor being correctly mounted on a heatsink of a specified thermal resistance (in degrees/watt), so check the manufacturer’s datasheet for details.
About a month ago, as a result of discussions on this thread, I installed a 12-watt sign lamp as a dummy load in parallel with a EarthLED Zetalux Pro LED light to eliminate flickering in two conventional 3-way circuits that contained Leviton Z-wave “incandescent” switches. One circuit used a Leviton VRI06-1LZ Z-Wave 600-Watt 2-Wire dimmer switch. The other used a VRS05-1LZ Z-Wave 5-Amp 2-Wire non-dimming switch. I had to use a dummy load because I was not able to run a neutral wire to these switches. The 12-watt sign bulb did the job, but it sure was ugly. If you place a 5000K LED bulb in the same fixture as a 12-watt incandescent sign bulb, it is hard not to notice that there is a serious light output imbalance. However, when it was not possible to run a neutral to these Leviton Z-Wave 2-Wire “incandescent” switches, what else could I do?
Last night I discovered another way. I replaced the 12-watt incandescent sign lamp with an EarthLED Thetalux Pro 5000K, 9-watt, 700 lumens, dimmable LED light bulb and my home automation world changed forever. I now had the ability to have rock steady performance with Leviton Z-wave 2-wire “incandescent” switches. The lamp fixture that only 5 minutes before had looked so ugly, now looked bright and beautiful.
I do not know how well the EarthLED Thetalux Pro works in a dimming circuit. I do not know whether or not I need to use this bulb in every lamp fixture. I do not know how well the 2700K version of this LED bulb functions as a dummy load. I do not know the long term effects of using this LED bulb as a dummy load for Leviton 2-wire, no-neutral Z-Wave switches instead of the 40-watt incandescent load that Leviton states is the minimum dummy load required to get these switches to function properly. However, I do know that, at least for the time being, I will not have to use 12-watt incandescent sign bulbs or high-power load resistors to provide a dummy load for my Leviton 2-wire switches. That is enough to brighten my day as much as the new LED bulb brightens my hallway.
If you have an interest in trying out this LED light bulb in your own home automation environment it can be found at the following URL:
http://store.earthled.com/products/earthled-thetalux-pro-9-watt-dimmable-led-light-bulb
I hope it works as well for you as it has for me.
During my last reply, I tried to enter the two words sun and glasses as one word. Somehow when this program sees the words sun and glasses written as one word, it interprets it to mean “I have a small brain” If you don’t believe me, try it for yourself. It appears that whoever wrote the simplemachines forum program has a quirky sense of humor.
Wondering if I should give this a try. I have a Leviton dimmer controlling 4 led recessed lights and have noted the same behavior.
It just seems like there should be a cleaner way to do this.
I’ll read this over a few times…thanks for the info…
Actually a Leviton rep just told me that the VRE06 would work as it is an electronic low voltage load type.
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=VRE06-1LX§ion=44140&minisite=10251
Its more expensive but I’m thinking about trying one out to see if it works…
I was wondering what you meant by “give it a try”. Are you looking at trying a ThetaLux LED light bulb or trying to use VRE06 as a substitute for a dummy load resistor? If you plan to use the VRE06, please note that it appears to need a neutral wire to function.
I have that but I ran into a problem today. I installed it correctly and all it would do is light up to 100% and then not even turn off.
Then it heated up pretty bad. I spoke with a Leviton rep and we checked the connections and voltage and found everything to be correct.
He felt it was a defective unit so I’m getting a replacement tomorrow. Hopefully it works out this time around. I explained the load to him and the details of the fixtures and everything seemed ok. The connections are simple enough so I don’t know what else the problem could be.
Sorry if I wasn’t clear the first time around. This is my first time dealing with LED lights so I’m learning as I go.
Here’s how I connected it by the way.
Black-to hot wire
White-to Neutral bundle in box
red-to traveller
green-to ground
The rep agreed that the wiring was correct so we’ll see what happens tomorrow…
I read the VRE06 installation documentation and it has two warnings regarding its use with fluorescent lighting:
To avoid overheating and possible damage to this device and other equipment, do not install to control a receptacle, fluorescent lighting, a motor- or a transformer-operated appliance. Use with electronic low voltage transformers only. Do Not use to control a magnetic low voltage transformer. Use a Leviton magnetic low voltage dimmer to control magnetic low voltage transformers.
My experience is that LED lamps behave similar to fluorescent lamps when used with Leviton switches, so if a switch does not support fluorescent lamps, it will not not work well with an LED lamp.
As far as I can determine, there is no Leviton Z-wave fluorescent dimmer. There is a Leviton Z-wave fluorescent switch, the VRS15-1LZ. However, the only Leviton Z-wave dimmer I have found is the VRI06-1LZ. Its installation guide states that it is to be used for incandescent lamps and that it requires a minimum 40 watt load to operate. Through trial and error, I have learned that I can get a VRI06 dimmer to work as long as I have a EarthLED ThetaLUX LED lamp or a 12 watt sign lamp in the circuit with other LED lamps.
I hope that the replacement VRE06 dimmer works for you, but I am not surprised at the problems you have had thus far with this switch.
I hear ya. We will see what happens this afternoon.
I have the vri06 also so I can always go back to that if this doesn’t work.
Just trying to figure out where I would put the damn lamp in that configuaration.
I wish there was a better way.
Thanks