Does anyone make this...

Hi All…

Like everyone else, I have a light over my driveway that is controlled by an on/off switch. I don’t want to replace the on/off switch. Is there a device that can go between the switch and the light, and turn the light on and off from the switch or z-wave? For example, if I press the switch twice (remove power then restore power) the light goes off, then do it again the light goes on.

You could add Z-Wave control to the existing switch by fitting a micro-module behind it. Options include Fibaro FGS-211 and Aeotec DSC26103-ZWUS.

The Fibaro modules have a great reputation in Europe but are only just becoming available in the USA so are likely to be hard to find.

I know you say you do not want to replace your light switch, but replacing the light switch with a ZWave light switch does exaxtly what you want (local and ZWave control of the light).

The light switch in the circuit usually causes power to be disconnected from the light. A ZWave switch will not work if there is no power available to the light due to the switch being off.

[quote=“aa6vh, post:3, topic:180395”]I know you say you do not want to replace your light switch, but replacing the light switch with a ZWave light switch does exaxtly what you want (local and ZWave control of the light).

The light switch in the circuit usually causes power to be disconnected from the light. A ZWave switch will not work if there is no power available to the light due to the switch being off.[/quote]

I think he did say he wanted something between the Switch and the Light so he can use Zwave or the original Switch.
And of course a Zwave switch will do just that but so will what REX suggested: The Aeon micro switch:

I’m assuming there is a reason not to replace the wall switch because of it is some decretive switch or just a pain to do so…
either way… the answer is yes.

There are problems with putting Z-Wave switches AFTER a regular switch.

It plays hell with the routing if Z-Wave devices do not have power.

[quote=“RichardTSchaefer, post:5, topic:180395”]There are problems with putting Z-Wave switches AFTER a regular switch.

It plays hell with the routing if Z-Wave devices do not have power.[/quote]

Or as I have found out… if your light burns out and your Zwave switch is no longer powered (3 way switch, Don’t ask me what this happened this way, replaced bulbs and added it all back)… That took out about 1/4th of my wave network.

Thanks everyone, I’ll check out these options. I could add a module downstream of the switch but I just know that someone will hot the switch. I could short the switch on, but then only Z-Wave can control the light.

The issue with replacing the switch is that it sits right next to another switch. The other switch is a Leviton 3 way dimmer. Both these switches are a line of Leviton (I forgot the name) that looks quite nice and matches all the other switches in the kitchen and dining room.

I could short the switch on, but then only Z-Wave can control the light.
If you add a micro-module, you can power it directly from the live supply and connect your existing switch to its input terminals. Now both the switch and Z-Wave can control the light.

This thing is cool! I just looked through the manual, this is a great idea. But, how big is it? My switches are large and the box it mounts in is small.

Oh, also, the Leviton switch has a blue locator led. I assume that the LED will stop working if I use this gadget?

Not necessarily. Some micro-modules can be switched by line voltage. The Fibaro certainly can. This would allow you to leave your switch powered so the pretty LED stays lit.

This thing is cool! I just looked through the manual, this is a great idea. But, how big is it? My switches are large and the box it mounts in is small.[/quote]
The Fibaro modules are about 5/8" thick. I’m sure the data sheet on the Aeon gives the dimensions. I have changed a few of my wall-boxes for deeper ones to accommodate micro-modules. It isn’t really that hard.

Okay thanks Rex, I’ll pull the switch out and see what I have for space in there. The boxes, well, pulling them out means breaking the plaster wall. That means repair and repaint. That means its getting done down the road :wink:

But with some luck I can make it work.

Just installed some aeon micro switches. It will fit in a single gang box, somewhat tight, but still space in there no problem. That includes probably 3-4 wire nuts also. I did a double gang with plenty of space to spare. It’s kind of difficult when trying to wire 3 or 4 way switches as the box next where the feed for your light also needs power. I had to rewire some of the travelers to make them the line wire, but it’s work great so far.