Hi, What’s the difference Vera 3 and Vera7k (announced at tigerdirect) ?
Vera7K is a kit that includes Vera3 along with 2 Lamp Modules, 2 ON/OFF Plu-in Modules, 2 Screw-in Modules.
Nice !
Thank you!
I want to install about 10 circuits and was thinking in buy veralite (I already have a wifi router), and use the aeon labs micro dimmers to do that. Do you think it’s the best choice?
I have 5 circuits that already have 2 3way wall switches. No problem if i want to maintain my 3 way switches ?
And if i want to integrate the home theater, the best choice is the sq blaster wifi to IR ?
Other question: I have now at home theater the harmony link device.
Is there a chance to integrate with vera? I think only if i can hack the harmony link or something like that…
am i right?
[quote=“Buy, post:3, topic:173988”]Nice !
Thank you!
I want to install about 10 circuits and was thinking in buy veralite (I already have a wifi router), and use the aeon labs micro dimmers to do that. Do you think it’s the best choice?
I have 5 circuits that already have 2 3way wall switches. No problem if i want to maintain my 3 way switches ?
And if i want to integrate the home theater, the best choice is the sq blaster wifi to IR ?
Other question: I have now at home theater the harmony link device.
Is there a chance to integrate with vera? I think only if i can hack the harmony link or something like that…
am i right?[/quote]
Other question, how can i install the aeon labs micro dimmer in this case? Where i connect the A B C D E F at micro dimmer?
[url=http://i48.tinypic.com/2qb9edl.jpg]http://i48.tinypic.com/2qb9edl.jpg[/url]
![http://i48.tinypic.com/2qb9edl.jpg[/url]](http://i48.tinypic.com/2qb9edl.jpg%5B/url%5D){kind=link}
I also have Aeon dimmer and just found ut that the don’t has power on the switch-part. They need three cords between the two 3-way switches and no power attached.
Thus in your picture, leave B,C, E, F unchanged and connect A and D to the Aeon dimmer switch part. Note that A and D also should be disconnected from the phase and lightbulb.
You got the picture as I also got it, and the Aeon design thus get me (and probably you) the problem that we lack one wire, since A comes with the power.
If you instead use the Fibaro dimmer, the the cable issue is solved since they only use a 2-wire design with the power on the switch cords - see their manual for 3-way design.
Aeon thus power the switches itself, and should not have power attached. This design works fine with one swicth, but not in 3-way with the cables already fixed.
Fibaro instead is a better design (according to me) when it comes to 3-way (or more) with cables already set, 'cause it only need 2 of our already fixed cables.
I’ll probaly have to rethink and put the Aeon only when it’s one switch and buy some more fibaro dimmer and put them in the 3-way switches. Thus, right now I’m stuck in the kitchen beacause of that Aeon 3-way wiring. Because I only have one Fibaro dimmer and 5 of the Aeon ones I can’t install them where I orignally planned.
Hi again,
With mono-stable switches they both Aeon and Fibaro can be used since you only have to make a closed circuit to turn on/off/dim. Thus you only need two cords - all unpowered on the switches.
Tried the Aeon dimmer on a rapid start fluorescent light tube. I hade a huge flickering at 30% (40% was the lowest I could get). Then I installed my only FIbaro dimmer and it worked down to 30%. In both cases the neutral was connected and no jumper on N-O on the fibaro.
Best part with the Fibaro is that it can be configured with several neat options. In this case setting lowest min-level is superb. It also has max level settings and one great - dbl click to get 100% (and some more neat options like travel tim 0-100% etc.).
I don’t know if the Aeon has any settings, but right now I whish I only had Fibaro dimmers and no Aeon.
Yet the Aeon swichtes are great in the installed wall outlets. They show power usage, has a non powered trigger - leaving me the option to install small micro switches on the outlet to manually start them (since a power outlet normally doesn’t have a switch). Here they’re great, but for switches I think Fibaro is the better option. Detailed configuration parameters with usefull options, an second switch to control other stuff - unfortunately no power metering (which is why I choose the Aeon ones).
My two cents…
// Qunaki