Title pretty much says it. I want to control the door with the Mimolite with wires on the com1 & NO1 terminals and also get an alert if the smoke alarms sound. I’m using a Kidde sm120x wire into the com1 and NC1 terminals. Will this work and if so, how to I get an alert from the Mimolite when the NC1 triggers?
Honestly I would use a separate sensor. I have several MIMOlites and seems latley the input triggers send false alarms. Also the inputs don’t report a time stamp like my door sensors do.
So while what you are trying to do will work I would rather spend 30.00 and buy a door/window sensor and use that instead. Keep the mimolite just for the door relay. I’m assuming like me you have alarm panel with sensors on the doors already and won’t be using the mimolite inputs.
It seems that these garage door openers use the MyQ technology so I need a MyQ bridge and the plugin instead of the Mimolites.
So now the Mimolite will just be monitoring the smoke relay. Are you saying that even if I’m just doing that with it they are prone to false alarms? Not really cool when it comes to smoke alarm alerts… The thing I don’t like about using a window sensor is the battery. The Mimo is on AC power. This thing is in a box in the garage ceiling.
[quote=“fullmoonguru, post:3, topic:188081”]It seems that these garage door openers use the MyQ technology so I need a MyQ bridge and the plugin instead of the Mimolites.
So now the Mimolite will just be monitoring the smoke relay. Are you saying that even if I’m just doing that with it they are prone to false alarms? Not really cool when it comes to smoke alarm alerts… The thing I don’t like about using a window sensor is the battery. The Mimo is on AC power. This thing is in a box in the garage ceiling.[/quote]
I’m vary aware of what a mimolite is and I have 3 of them controlling garage doors and one controlling a driveway gate. The garage doors have a home alarm panel and sensors on each door which I use for door status. The gate does not have an alarm on it and i use the inputs on the mimolite. I have good months and bad months. It may work fine for sometime then the gate will say closed, then say closed, then say closed even tho it never says or actually opened. I will get a false reading of opened every few months also. I have cameras to check activity and I’m not the only one that reports this. I have since used a door sensor (yes battery powered) right next to the mimo and moved of the wires to prevent false alarms which I have.
So again altho it will work and may work good for sometime they are known for input sensor issues (do a search). Relay I never had problem with and you’ll see some of my previous post prazing the price and versatility of them.
Smoke alarms for me were tied into the alarm panel also (which I’m assuming you have for your garage door since you arn’t using the mimo) . This not only helps with VERA but also trips the house alarm. It’s also very reliable.
OK, thanks for the info. Guess I’ll switch to a sensor for that.
I tried connecting this last week and ran into problems. This is the wiring as listed on my relay instructions:
Black Wire AC Hot
White Wire AC Neutral
Red Wire Interconnect Signal
Blue Wire Common Contact
Yellow Wire Normally Closed Contact
Orange Wire Normally Open Contact
Gray Wire 9-Volt DC Output (5MA Max.)
My instructions also show 4 examples for different scenarios. One for the relay to trip a “120 volt device wired to turn on when alarm sounds”, a fire alarm pull, and a “rate of rise heat detector”.
So I assume I’m doing the device wired to turn on. In this case I am to run a wire from the neutral wire from the house AC to the door/window sensor, and the orange (NO) wire from the relay to the door/window sensor. This seems strange though, and not what I’ve seen in posts (though I haven’t seen any clear examples with this particular relay).
I thought I was supposed to connect the blue (com) and orange (NO) wires to the door/window sensor but testing didn’t trigger it.
Most door/windows sensors are designed with a “normally closed” contact. Therefore, this should work if you connect the “blue common” and “yellow normally closed” wires from the Kidde SM120X relay to the external connection terminals of your door/window sensor.
None of the examples provided in the SM120X instructions apply to your application. As you guessed, you should certainly not be running any 120VAC house wiring to the door/window sensor contacts!
I think I tried that first. Not sure though. So looking at the SM120 diagram, the blue wire is connected to the yellow. This makes sense. Normally closed. When the smoke wire trips the SM120, that switch moves to the NO orange wire, opening the yellow. The window sensor senses the change in continuity and should show as tripped in Vera. There’s no voltage there at all. I’ll try it & see what I get. At least now I really understand what’s supposed to be happening so if I’m not getting expected results I can effectively troubleshoot it.
Thanks-
It should be easy to diagnose the cause of this problem. Either (a) the Kidde relay is not opening as expected when your smoke alarm trips (and hence it is either wired incorrectly or is defective, or (b) the door/window sensor is failing to trip and send a message to Vera when the connection opens between its two external terminals (and hence the door sensor is not configured to communicate with Vera or is defective).
The Kidde relay can easily be tested with meter or continuity tester to see whether continuity between the yellow and blue leads is broken when the smoke alarm is tripped. The door/window sensor can easily be tested by wiring its two external terminals together and checking that it reports a normal/untripped status to Vera, and then disconnecting the wire jumper and checking that it reports a tripped status to Vera.
One other potential problem is that the cover is off of the door sensor. This causes the sensor to be in tamper mode and it will not operate correctly.
Thanks guys. Yeah there were kids in the house & stuff and I just couldn’t finish it. I’m going back down there tomorrow. I suspect that the electrician never connected the wire from the smoke to the box in the garage where this stuff is located. I’m going to test the door sensor with a jumper fire first, then look for 9vdc at the wire from the smokes when they’re alarming. That should tell me what’s going on.
Did you ever get your smoke alarm successfully connected to your door sensor via the SM120?
I am trying to do the same and have not been able to get it working successfully, i think because of the wiring. Like yours, other posts i have seen suggest connecting the blue (common) and yellow (normally closed) of the relay to the sensor. and of course the red, black and white from the relay to the corresponding wires of the smoke alarm. I also tried the blue and orange from relay to sensor. neither setups properly tripped.
What was your final wiring? Thank you for your help.
Well I figured out that the signal wire had never been connected to the box in the garage by the electrician and we couldn’t find the wire. So I went to one of the smokes and did it there. I just looked and I guess I didn’t write instructions down. To me that means that it was simply connecting the blue and yellow wires to the sensor.
I do seem to remember that I had to hold the test button down for a bit. Just pressing it and getting the sound wasn’t long enough to trip the relay. If you do that and still don’t get a signal, this is how I would diagnose it:
Power everything up and test the continuity between the blue & yellow relay wires. They should be connected (closed). Press and hold the test button on the smoke and then check continuity again. It should be open. If it is, your relay is working.
Then you can check the door sensor by connecting test wires to it and holding them together. When you separate them you should get the light flashing or turning on (if memory serves right), and an alert to Vera if you have it connected. Once you get that working you can reassemble and you should be good.
[quote=“fullmoonguru”]Well I figured out that the signal wire had never been connected to the box in the garage by the electrician and we couldn’t find the wire. So I went to one of the smokes and did it there. I just looked and I guess I didn’t write instructions down. To me that means that it was simply connecting the blue and yellow wires to the sensor.
I do seem to remember that I had to hold the test button down for a bit. Just pressing it and getting the sound wasn’t long enough to trip the relay. If you do that and still don’t get a signal, this is how I would diagnose it:
Power everything up and test the continuity between the blue & yellow relay wires. They should be connected (closed). Press and hold the test button on the smoke and then check continuity again. It should be open. If it is, your relay is working.
Then you can check the door sensor by connecting test wires to it and holding them together. When you separate them you should get the light flashing or turning on (if memory serves right), and an alert to Vera if you have it connected. Once you get that working you can reassemble and you should be good.[/quote]
Thank you for your help. After quite a bit of testing and reconfiguring, it started working. It was simply the blue and yellow into the sensor and the red, white and black connected in line with the detector. I tried 3 different sensors with various results and finally it started working properly. I’m not sure what changed. While diagnosing, I called kidde support and they had me verify the relay by disconnecting the relay’s red from the detector and connecting it to the 9v grey. When I did that I could audibly hear the relay switch. With those wires connected, support also had me use a multimeter to test the resistance between the blue and yellow.
Anyway, I’m still a bit in the dark but pleased it appears to be working. Thanks again for your help!
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