I just ordered a Vera. Should be here in 2 days. Also, I’m new to Z-Wave.
Is there a list of compatible IP Cameras?
How about a list of “Good” and “Not so Good” Z-wave devices for compatibility?
http://wiki.micasaverde.com/index.php/IP_Cameras
From my experience, any camera that can output jpg images accessed by URL can be integrated into Vera, most likely with no PTZ control. For PTZ the camera has to be fully supported… the list is quite short at this time, although it’s said that to-be-introduced LUA support will enable easy customizations, including those for not yet supported cameras.
It might be worth running few searches in this forums…
The link only lists a couple of Panasonic models. Anyone know if the BB-HCM311A works (inc. PTZ)?
-GT
I have used several Panasonic wireless IP cameras, and now tried a LinkSys WVC54GCA. Although the Panasonic cameras worked OK, I found them troublesome to setup, and had one fail with a quoted repair cost of $95. I’ve only had the Linksys for two weeks, having installed it with a new Vera setup. It works great, is easier to setup than the Panasonic, and best of all, it cost about half as much.
We’ll see about the reliability over time. The Panasonic lasted about a year (I have read others have had the same failure experience with the BL-20 series).
As far as configuration goes, I opted to use both the Vera connection to the camera, and the ddns service that comes with the camera (it’s free for the first year, so we’ll see if we like it and decide whether or not to pay the $20/year afterward). You cannot use one of the free ddns services with the Linksys unless you have another device providing the ddns service connection. I believe Vera can do this, but that would require getting into the Linux side of Vera for which I’m not prepared.
I can see the images fine through FindVera.com as well as through my ddns link. I did change the port address on the camera in anticipation of adding more cameras and other devices that I may want to access via the ddns.
As for the Z-wave devices, I have used a number of different wall switches in my ELK system, and now with the Vera installation in my second home I bought six of the Home Settings HA20C models. They are great. The best part about these is that if you install them in a 3-way configuration, you can use your existing switch as the companion. You need not purchase a special companion 3-wave device.
I hope this helps.
Anthony
I just got my Vera yesterday. Still have a couple of issues, but I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to solve them 
I bought a few Cooper Aspire light switches about 9 months ago, and you do need to buy the companion switch for 3-way. They are nice switches, but expensive. Also, the 3-way needs to be defined as an association, so you must have something like Vera or HomeSeer to do this. As a result, I’ve only just got the 3-ways working … they’d been non-functional since installed! WooHoo, thanks Vera!!
I just found a place in Canada (where I live) selling the Intermatic Intouch CA600 switch for an excellent price (almost half the price I paid for Cooper from HomeSeer), so decided to go with them. They should arrive next week. Another benefit is they also can work with existing 3-way switches (as you described). I’ve got a lot of 3-way, so this is a double-savings. Also picked up the CA8900 thermostat from them while I was at it …
Can you share this wonder place with us? The only z-wave carrying place I know is aartech.ca, which pricing isn’t exactly low.
Yes, that’s it. Aartech.ca. They currently have the CA600 for about $49 Cdn, the CA8900 t-stat for about $79Cdn. Orders over $500 get free shipping (which is only about $10-$15 anyway, so very reasonable).
Wasn’t trying to be mysterious by not posting the name, but wasn’t sure if this was frowned upon in these forums.
-GT
Let us know how it’s going: Intermatic Intouch line is known for being not fully z-wave compliant, so it would be nice to know whether these switches work well with Vera.
Really? I noticed that they were being sold by Micasaverde at their online store. I assumed they wouldn’t sell something that didn’t work well with Vera …
Who says there not compliant!
They may not have some Z-wave features but does that make them non compliant. That goes for the switches and dimmers.
The motion sensor may not be.
Apparently not all of them http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=532.0
But I hope these do work well - the deal is not bad at all 
My order was shipped on Friday, I expect to have them tomorrow or Tuesday. Will report back.
Received my order (minus t-stat, which has now been shipped as well). The InTouch CA600 dimmer and CA3000 switch both seem to work fine with Vera. I had not problem including them in the network and controlling them from Vera.
In comparison to Cooper Aspire, I actually like that the dimming function is press & hold vs. the separate dimmer bar that Cooper uses. I do prefer the Cooper’s blue LEDs that give a visual indication of the current dimmer power level. As for the switch, it seems great except you should be aware that it makes a fairly loud click when switched on/off. I don’t know if other brands of switches are like this (the CA3000 is 15-amp rated), but it could be annoying for some installations depending where it is installed and how you use it. The dimmers are completely quiet.
I’m very pleased with the InTouch stuff and may end up buying more …
Just got mine CA3000. I’m absolute dumb in wiring; is there diagram or something of how to replace one of regular 3-way switches with CA3000?
All diagrams show how to connect black, white and red wires, but this one got fourth one - blue. Any advise?
In my house none of my 3-way switches have neutral wire in the box. the CA600 dimmers do not require neutral, but the CA3000 switches do. This is only an issue for 3-ways, as I always found neutral in single-pole (non 3-way) installations.
The first z-wave dimmers I got from Cooper also required neutral and it was a pain in the ass to figure out. I got lucky and realized I could grab neutral from a power outlet that was conveniently below the switch (interior wall, no joists blocking the way). Cooper later released dimmers that do not require neutral.
Anyway, let’s assume you do have a neutral in the box. Take a look at the wiring diagram that came with the CA3000. You’ll notice that the black wire needs to connect to the “hot” or live wire. I found it by disconnecting the wires from both switches and using a multimeter to find the one that has 120 v (press the black probe of your multimeter against the metal switch box and then try each of the wires with the red probe until you find 120 v. There will only be one such wire between the two boxes). The two remaining wires that were originally connected to the switch represent the two going back to the other switch and they will connect to the blue & red wires from the CA3000. Then look for them by colour at the other switch. If there are two that are the same coulour (e.g. two reds and a black), follow the wires back until you see where the wires enter the box. The two that came from the CA3000 switch will obviously be bundled in the same wire. The remaining wire must connect to the load (light) as shown in their wiring diagram. Note that they require you to install a jumper on this switch. I found the easiest way was to use the screwless push-wire connector that exist on most switches, but are rarely used. The remaining unconnected white wire on the CA3000 needs to be connected to neutral, which is normally a white wire. Again, you can verify neutral by using your multimeter and searching for power from hot to neutral. Note that it may work if you just ground it instead of finding a proper neutral, but this is considered a big no-no and is against code (I wouldn’t do it).
Hope this helps.
Attached are my diagram / notes for connecting the HA20 3-way configuration. I’m not certain how much of it applies to the CA3000, but it cannot hurt to look. I also attached a general diagram for 3-way switch wiring. Again, it may not have the answers you need, but the information should be useful.
Just a word of caution, Be careful if wiring is not within your skills or comfort zone. Things could get ugly, and you could hurt someone with incorrect wiring.
Regards,
Anthony
Note that the HA20 does not require neutral whereas the CA3000 does, as I indicated in a previous post. The diagram is still good, but doesn’t show the connection to neutral.
Hmm… I hoped I can simply replace regular 3-way switch with this one.
The problem is - on the CA3000 diagrams I see two wires going between the switches: blue and red/yellow. However when I opened both existing switches I see only 3 wires in both: black, white, and red. Assuming black and white go for hot and neutral, I have only one wire left to go to the other switch. What am I missing?
You’re missing neutral 
Diagram of what I believe you have: How To Install a 3-way Switch Option #2 :: Home Improvement Web
-GT
That’s sad. I guess at this price I’m still better to keep them…
In the box that’s closer to a panel I do have two white wires connected together, but not connected to the switch… No idea what’s that though…