Does anyone know if Vera can close a garage door using Wayne Dalton Wireless Gateway WDHA-12R and Wayne Dalton WDRR-372 garage door converter?
I don’t see any way to tie a scene to a garage door close button.
Thanks!
You can’t get there from here (spoken in a Down-East Maine accent)
The gateway lets you trigger scenes from garage door remotes, but not the reverse. It helps make the extra buttons in your car’s Homelink do something useful but that’s about it.
You sure can do it, but not with WD line.
See option 2 here
http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=2757.msg10976#msg10976
This is next on my list of things to buy and do! I already have the sensor so i have half of whats required. If i’m brave and get the time, then i might modify an appliance module to do the same thing as in this post:
I have some spare modules so if i can work out which trace to cut then its a cheap solution.
Thank you, it’s a very interesting work-around. I will check into it.
[quote=“325xi, post:3, topic:165735”]You sure can do it, but not with WD line.
See option 2 here
http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=2757.msg10976#msg10976[/quote]
I have two Wayne Dalton z-wave garage door openers, and they are simple scene controllers that do not respond to any commands. Documentation stinks, and I don’t know if they even send scene on/off depending on if the door is raised or lowered.
Before I bough them, I read somewhere that it was not legal in many states to sell remote control garage door openers (apparently a lot of people tend to get trapped under them?) – car remotes are okay because they have a limited range, so you’ll have to use a work-around as suggested previously.
You know, if WD they don’t allow control over garage door, may be it for a reason 
My guess to make it fly they’d have to make it as secure as z-wave locks, which would probably make them just as expensive, and this is just a garage opener… my guess the cost is what might keep it from happening.
Based on a conversation with ASIhome on the phone a couple months ago, WD was working on getting a z-wave garage door opener that can be controlled via z-wave approved/listed. ASIhome is on this forum, so maybe they can fill us in on the status - or if this is still going to happen.
I’m using the sensor and zwave contact closure method… but I don’t like it so much - just because I have to send it a close command and then an open command one second later. In the rare (never happened to me) event that the first z-wave command is received, but the second command is not, the contact closure would remain closed, preventing any regular garage door remote from triggering the door, not to mention any consequences that would have on the garage door opener. I don’t think keeping a closed control circuit would cause any complications, but i don’t know - I would imagine there is some resistance/load on the circuit, and not just cause a short, but I haven’t opened up the thing up.
Woodsby:
I just set up a scene in Vera that sends close then open commands to the switch in order. I just hit the scene button. I have a door/window sensor on the door to tell me if the door is open or closed if I am away. Works great!
I do the same… but what I was saying is… in the unlikely event the second (open contact) z-wave command doesn’t get received, the contact closure will stay in the closed position, thereby preventing any other garage door control from happening. Now that I think about it, maybe the garage remotes will still work, but the wired button certainly won’t - all it does is close these same contacts, so if they’re already closed, it won’t do anything.
I have a diagram of a circuit you can assemble for getting a momentary contact out of an appliance module. I searched the internet at work, but I’ll have to look for it at home. It was a .gif file I think that detailed the schematic and the electronics components used. This is a little nicer than cutting the trace on an appliance module or using an ice cube relay on an appliance module, as both of those are maintained contact.
Hopefully I can find it again…
There’s a variety of ways to do this with a combination of relays. I drew up a schematic a few months back to pick a timer relay on both the on and off commands on the fixture module - using NO and NC relays in series off the module that pick a timer relay. There were a couple of time delay relays in the mix to allow one relay to open before the other one closed. Wasn’t worth the effort.
I just created a scene based on the fixture module ON event, that waits 5 seconds then turns it off - as a backup to the virtual garage door device which turns on, calls a one second delay, then turns off.
Edited for clarification.
I modified an appliance module and put the circuit board from one of my garage door remotes inside it. Externally, it looks just like an ordinary appliance module.
I control it via a scene in Vera. The trigger closes the circuit for 5 seconds, then opens it again. Works like a charm. It’s great for me, because I use SQ Remote on my iPhone to control the house. It is nice to be able to open and close the door via iPhone.
My only desire would be a quicker transition time than the 5 seconds. 3 seconds would be better.
Do you have any notes,pictures etc. on how you modified this device?
I’d like this too, I’ve got a 12 pack of beer and I’m dangerous with a soldering iron, sounds like a project but I would also like to do this…any pics, or contributions would be great
[quote=“TheGadgetGuy, post:13, topic:165735”]I modified an appliance module and put the circuit board from one of my garage door remotes inside it. Externally, it looks just like an ordinary appliance module.
I control it via a scene in Vera. The trigger closes the circuit for 5 seconds, then opens it again. Works like a charm. It’s great for me, because I use SQ Remote on my iPhone to control the house. It is nice to be able to open and close the door via iPhone.
My only desire would be a quicker transition time than the 5 seconds. 3 seconds would be better.[/quote]Sounds like the same thing somebody did on the homeseer board. If you have any instructions I’ve got a bunch of spare Appliance modules i bought for 1 cent from Home Depot to practice on
Hello guys.
Unfortunately, when I built the “garage door module”, I didn’t think to take any pictures.
If I get some free time this weekend, maybe I can take it apart and show what needs to be done. It’s not really that difficult, but you need to be careful, because it IS a 110v device. We don’t want to start any fires!
Why bother modifying an appliance module…? Just buy one of these and wire it to the contacts on the garage door motor where the wall button connects. Thats what I did… works like a charm. ~ 30$
ACT ZRF113 - Z-Wave Relay Fixture Module
Oh and dont forget to buy an HRDS1 and a garage door contact sensor to wire to the external input of the HRDS1. This will allow you to receive alerts when the door opens and closes (I would recommend this in case of intrusion or vera decides to malfunction and open your garage door).
Here are my recommendations:
http://www.asihome.com/ASIshop/product_info.php?products_id=3960
http://smarthome-products.com/p-951-hrds1-wireless-doorwindow-sensor.aspx
http://www.smarthome.com/7455/Garage-Door-Contacts-for-Closed-Circuits-SM-226L/p.aspx
I got the above products… went to home depot and bought a small waterproof plastic enclosure for electrical boxes and a “replacement power tool power cord”… the electrical box needs to be big enough to fit the relay in and the replacement power cord is just a grounded 3 pronged plug and bare wires on the other end.
I drilled a hole in the plastic electrical box to feed the grounded power wire into it. Wired the closed contacts from the relay into the same terminals as the wall push button. Then I closed up the whole enclosure and mounted it above the garage door motor and plugged it into the same power outlet as the garage door motor (mounted in ceiling usually). Trip the relay for 5 or 10 seconds with vera as a scene and your garage door opens or closes. In the unlikely event that the relay gets stuck closed I believe the remotes still work.
BTW… I tried to use the HRDS1 with the factory magnetic contact it comes with for awhile but it is not suited well for garage doors. The clearances were too close between the door and the track the door is on so the magnetic contact eventually hit the track and broke. I would recommend buying the above contacts and wiring them to the external terminals on the HRDS1 to start. You will be saving yourself some headaches and its only ~ 10$…
Some pictures attached… the red wire coming out of the box is an extension of the zwave antenna wire that comes off of the zwave relay… the blue wires are the contact wires that are wired to the wall button terminals on the motor.
I did confirm the remotes still work if the fixture module gets stuck closed. And thanks bosston, I wanted to jump in and explain this method, but I’m out of pocket this weekend.
[quote=“B0SST0N, post:18, topic:165735”]Why bother modifying an appliance module…? J[/quote]Cos there would be no fun in that!