Caddx Help with Serial Cable please

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1

I am trying to get everything I need so that I can go visit a friend’s lake house to install a new vera 3 and connect it to their Caddx NX-8 alarm system. I have read several of the threads regarding this connection, but since I haven’t seen the actual alarm panel, I can’t quite determine what I need for the USB connection.

I have the ad2usb device connected to my home alarm, so I am familiar with the concept but for that I had to wire into the panel as if I was adding a keyboard.

Would someone please try to tell me exactly what I will need to get from the apparent serial connection in the alarm panel to the usb connector for vera. It is a three hour drive to the lake home and there aren’t any stores near their location so if I could trouble someone for the exact parts I would really appreciate it. I looked at the p-0003 but that just didn’t seem to get me there.

2

At a minimum you will need:

[ul][li]NX-8E or NX-584, for the RS-232 port. That “E” is important; the NX-8 has no serial port by itself. The NX-8E is an enhanced version of the NX-8 which contains (among other things) a serial port. If your friend has a bare NX-8, or a different model of main board like the NX-4 or NX-6, none of those have a serial port and you will have to connect an NX-584.[/li]
[li]If you use the NX-584, four-conductor cable, for connecting the NX-584 to the main panel. This is exactly the same stuff as you use to connect wired keypads to the panel. If you have an NX-8E with an on-board serial port, this cable is unnecessary.[/li]
[li]If you use the NX-8E, a ten-pin-to-DB9 serial cable, for changing the silly 2x5 serial jumper on the board into a normal serial port shape. You can buy the official P-0003 cable, or you can make your own.[/li]
[li]A USB-to-RS-232 adapter, with a USB-type-A plug on one end and a male DB9 plug on the other . The brand does not matter. Some users swear that the chipset matters too, but Vera should be able to handle Prolific, FTDI or Silicon Labs chipsets without issue. If you are paranoid, bring two, with different chipsets.[/li]
[li]A null modem cable, or a female-female DB9 gender adapter. Both of the above two devices have male connectors, so one of these is required to make the physical connection. If you use a null modem cable, it has a transmit/receive crossover built in (which you want); if you use a gender adapter then you will have to achieve the crossover some other way: the NX-584 has jumpers on it to flip the transmit and receive pins.[/li]
[li]A powered USB hub. You may end up not needing this: it’s used to boost the current that is supplied to the USB-to-serial adapter, which may want to draw more power than the Vera can supply out its USB port.[/li]
[li]The installation manuals for the Caddx equipment you are using. These are freely available online if you didn’t get paper copies. You will need these to program the panel, perhaps enable its serial port, and set things like the baud rate and the type of access you want the Vera to have (monitor-only or arm-disarm).[/li]
[li]The Go-to-program code of the NX-8(E) alarm panel. By default this code is 9713, but installation contractors tend to change it. Without this code you cannot succeed.[/li][/ul]

The above assumes that you can physically co-locate all of the equipment. If you can’t but can run wires then you can use a longer null modem cable and/or longer four-conductor cable. If you can’t run wires then we’ll need to discuss your specific situation.

(Edit: added mention of the NX-8E’s serial jumper and the P-0003 cable)

3

If you give us more info that would be helpful. What alarm panel does he have?

NX-8 doesn’t have a serial port built on it.

NX-8E does have a serial port but needs the p-0003 plus a null modem female to female cable, then a usb to serial adapter.

NX-8E has no dip switches to change but does require several programming changes to be made in the panel. Do you have the installer passwords to program the alarm panel? If the alarm system was installed by a professional company chances are you don’t have them and can not get into the system to program it.

How far is the VERA from the alarm panel?

Can you please give us more info so we can save you a trip. Without some of this info your dead in the water on ordering parts (e model or not = different connections or adapters)

And without installer password there is no way to factory default or erase the code and you can’t program anything without it. Which means all the cables you buy will be for nothing.

4

You guys are awesome, thank you so much for all of the great information.

I will try to attach a picture that the owner took while doing the home inspection. I have to admit, I couldn’t see a serial port and now I understand that there is a difference between the 8 and the 8e. In another picture, there is bold handwriting with what i assume is the installer’s name and number with a date from 2003, so that will be interesting. If you could look at the picture and tell me anything about it, I would sure appreciate it.

At this point, the location of the vera is open. With my ademco, I installed an ASUS router that I configured as a repeater/extender next to the alarm panel and plugged my vera lite into the back of that. So, the vera is physically connected to the alarm panel and wirelessly connected to the router. I probably should consider adding a powered usb hub to that mix since i am using a usb stick for logging.

So, at the lake, I can probably do the same depending upon what wiring is available. I planned to take multiple routers since it is a big house and I think they will need extras for coverage.

Assuming that i have to install the nx-584, is that what will require programming in the panel? Can you describe what I would say to the installer if I can get one to go there? Is there any other programming required? I am not comfortable making the panel or alarm updates because the worst thing i could do is make it so their alarm isn’t working at all. I will however try to obtain the code. Is there an easy way to tell if the default code is the current code?

At this point, there isn’t even a router installed. The house has been empty for a couple of years. So, basically I have a blank canvas and the fact that I have done something similar at my home and have been using vera for a year or so. Our goal is for the owner to be able to monitor or manipulate the alarm system from their phone in order to be aware of trouble or to let people in, etc. I will also replace the thermostats so they can control that from a distance as well.

I really thought I was so lucky that they had the nx8 but now I see my work has just begun. Thanks so much.

5

[quote=“pentium, post:4, topic:183231”]You guys are awesome, thank you so much for all of the great information.

I will try to attach a picture that the owner took while doing the home inspection. I have to admit, I couldn’t see a serial port and now I understand that there is a difference between the 8 and the 8e. In another picture, there is bold handwriting with what i assume is the installer’s name and number with a date from 2003, so that will be interesting. If you could look at the picture and tell me anything about it, I would sure appreciate it.

At this point, the location of the vera is open. With my ademco, I installed an ASUS router that I configured as a repeater/extender next to the alarm panel and plugged my vera lite into the back of that. So, the vera is physically connected to the alarm panel and wirelessly connected to the router. I probably should consider adding a powered usb hub to that mix since i am using a usb stick for logging.

So, at the lake, I can probably do the same depending upon what wiring is available. I planned to take multiple routers since it is a big house and I think they will need extras for coverage.

Assuming that i have to install the nx-584, is that what will require programming in the panel? Can you describe what I would say to the installer if I can get one to go there? Is there any other programming required? I am not comfortable making the panel or alarm updates because the worst thing i could do is make it so their alarm isn’t working at all. I will however try to obtain the code. Is there an easy way to tell if the default code is the current code?

At this point, there isn’t even a router installed. The house has been empty for a couple of years. So, basically I have a blank canvas and the fact that I have done something similar at my home and have been using vera for a year or so. Our goal is for the owner to be able to monitor or manipulate the alarm system from their phone in order to be aware of trouble or to let people in, etc. I will also replace the thermostats so they can control that from a distance as well.

I really thought I was so lucky that they had the nx8 but now I see my work has just begun. Thanks so much.[/quote]

Can’t tell from the pic if its an E or not. Both would require programming and that can be a little confusing at first.

I don’t want to get your hopes down, but an install from 2003… The installer is not likely to have or want to give you the code even if you get threw, but start there. Code could be default but that is a security issue and I have yet to see any professional installer leave it that way for a few reasons. One they want you to call them back and not to have you or anyone else touch it.

When you call you need to ask for the installer password for your panel.

Is this alarm being monitored by a company? That makes not screwing things up a little more difficult.

Worst comes to worst you can alway’s swap the NX8 board out (if it’s locked) for like 60.00 (ebay) with a new one (NX-8E unlocked or with default code). But you will have to program everything back from scratch.

6

Replacing that card is brilliant! Probably would even have a newer firmware. I would have spent almost that much for the serial card. Seems like it was in the $50’s.

Currently, the phone line isn’t even plugged into the panel, and the battery is sitting on a shelf nearby. I’m really surprised that the previous owners haven’t kept it alarmed, but it is also an empty house.

Thank you again, I’m sure I will be back with more questions. It seems like even with a 50-50 chance of getting it right, everyone is wiring them backwards.

also, is there a way to know if any of the zones are wireless or if that board supports wireless? I don’t think there is anything in the panel on the left side of that picture. I didn’t get to take the picture or even see the box.

7

[quote=“pentium, post:6, topic:183231”]Replacing that card is brilliant! Probably would even have a newer firmware. I would have spent almost that much for the serial card. Seems like it was in the $50’s.

Currently, the phone line isn’t even plugged into the panel, and the battery is sitting on a shelf nearby. I’m really surprised that the previous owners haven’t kept it alarmed, but it is also an empty house.

Thank you again, I’m sure I will be back with more questions. It seems like even with a 50-50 chance of getting it right, everyone is wiring them backwards.

also, is there a way to know if any of the zones are wireless or if that board supports wireless? I don’t think there is anything in the panel on the left side of that picture. I didn’t get to take the picture or even see the box.[/quote]

Well the board in the picture is not wireless and the way mine is setup for wireless is the keypad has wires going to it but all wireless zones connect to (wireless) that. So easy way, check and see what the keypad or pads models. If they not compatible then no wireless if they are. Then programming (amusing you can get in) you can find which wireless zones are active.

Firmware not going to make much difference. But the E is a newer and better unit.

Also in the picture you have no expansion boards or any other add on modals in that box. Looks to me like they have alot of zones grouped together. Probley front door and read door and such are on one zone. That board only has a max of 8 zones. Now would be the time to add a NX218 to split them up so vera can read front door and rear door seperatly.

Also don’t feel stuck with the GE unit at this point either. If your chaning the board all the wired sensors and such will work on a vista 20p board or anything (assuming you don’t currently have wireless). Keypad will have to be changed. If backup battery is not being used it might be dead and no good. A kit with board, wireless keypad, battery, steel box and such is like 150.00.

So explore all options before you go forward. Without installer password your going to pretty much be starting over. I own 2 Caddx alarms in two different houses, they are not real easy to program. I’m not sure if the Honeywell are better.

8

I cannot thank you enough for these thoughts. I found the nx-8e at smarthome for $102, so that is the perfect solution if staying with caddx. Your thought to expand the panel is spot on and I even like the idea of getting a vista which I am already familiar with (at least the vera side of it). I suspect that my installer options are limited as the nearest town is 25 miles away. I can’t really risk messing up my friend’s alarm capabilities, so there will definitely be a professional involved. Also, if i expand my search to something that allows for the alarm interface to wirelessly connect to vera, then that would be even better.