Ok, I just got started and have my yamaha receiver, one door sensor, and one schlage lock. Learning lots, but lots to learn.
To get started with lighting, i ordered one of the CA600 dimmers and one Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Micro In-Wall Switch. (got one of each as kind of an experiment to see how things work and what i should order more of and use) Most of my lights in my house are three way which is where the challenges and learning starts. The Aeotec microswtich came today, the CA600 should be here Thursday. I tried following the wiring diagrams with NO luck.
It doesnt seem like i have a constant in either switch box? A power line that is always hot with the breaker on with all wires disconnected… Is that even possible? Was my house wired with one of these two source at light models? Does that mean I have no source line in a switch box and thus am hosed with these zwave switches? Admitidly I’m now tired, and thought this would be easier. So i need to regroup and start over. (hopefully with some advice from you guys)
My house has 5 3 ways and 1 three way, and only 5 singles (not counting bathroom fans etc) So I need to master how all these three ways are wired before i figure out what else i need to order.
*** Edit with more info lower in the thread. I’m dumb, with proper testing tools and procedure one switch does have the ‘hot’ constant 120v right from the panel present ***
Crap, i found this feedback on GE zwave switches… i hope i’m not in this boat…
“These 3-way switches require the electrical supply feed to be in the switch box. Many houses are wired with the supply to the light junction box and the 3-way wire ( traveler, common, black and ground) runs to the both switch boxes. Without running additional wiring to the primary switch, it is impossible to wire these devices.”
No, there must be a hot/line from the load center to one of the switch boxes. Don’t confuse ‘power through the light’ with the actual electricity path. In the two diagrams you attached, you should notice that the white wire, usually a neutral, is repurposed - signified with the black tape wrapping - as the hot/line.
Pretty much every brand of Z-wave switch requires some re-wiring when more than one switch is involved. Get some sleep and take another look at your situation. If you can’t figure it out, there is usually someone here who can help, but you must determine your existing electricity path.
OK so i have an understanding of what wires i have now, but not really how they work.
Line —> Switch one ---- two wires between switch one and two → switch two → one wire to light All have neutrals at the boxes and light.
Switch one works fine and zwave commands work, when switch two is in one position. Change switch two and the circuit goes off, and switch one and zwave commands dont do anything. (even though i can hear the module switching on commands)
You’ve mentioned Aeotec, CA600, and GE switches; those are all wired differently, both the primary and secondary switches. Are you sure you have a neutral in each box? Just because it is a white wire does not mean that it is a neutral. In your lighting diagrams, there is no neutral at either switch. The white wire was re-purposed. You’d only have a neutral if it was supplied by another circuit in that box. If you have no neutral, it will rule out the use of several brands of Z-wave switches in multi-switch circuits. You’ll probably be able to use the CA600. I’m not familiar with the Aeotec.
I removed those diagrams in the first post, as thats what i thought i had before i had a wire tracer tool from harbor freight and used proper procedure and multimeter.
I think i figured it out, both the CA600 and aeotek can use the aux switch a standard 3way if you 'reverse the travelers and jump the two poll side of the switch.
I quickly just tried that on one circuit, and it seems to work. Both switches and zwave commands all function and vera keeps the status of the light in all scenerios.