So I picked up a GE 45638 which is a two switch Z-Wave kit for a 3-way setup. Where I want to install them is in a setup that’s currently a switched outlet w/two switches. I was an electrician apprentice for a brief stint but unfortunately I never got to the point of learning how these sorts of things work so I’m not comfortable figuring this out myself.
When I open the two boxes I’m faced with two switches that have bare grounds connected & then on top of one of the switches is black & red with black on the bottom. On the other one I have red & black up top with black on bottom. Am I correct in assuming that one of the switches has a common in that’s hot (line) and then two travelers to the other switch which then has a common (line) going out to the outlet? There’s a couple of ways to skin this cat and I haven’t metered any wires to see what’s what just yet but even knowing what’s how or not won’t tell me enough to know how to wire this all up.
The second part of the scenario is the switch kit I got. One switch has only Traveler & Neutral terminals. The other one has these two terminals as well as a line & load. So the latter of which probably goes into the box that has the line common but other than that, I’m not really sure what sequence all these wires should be in.
Hoping someone here stuck around the field longer than I did and knows this stuff and can offer some support. If I have to pay an electrician to come do it for me then it’s not worth it to install them. Is it a case of not having the right type of switches or can I make this work easily with what’s here? Glad to add any other information needs to be added including pictures if that helps.
Check this thread out for more info: [url=http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,27463.0.html]http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,27463.0.html[/url]. I’ve held off on installing mine for now but once I do I’ll be using the diagram posted in that thread.
Your assumptions about the existing switches are likely correct, but you should never assume and you should always positively identify each and every wire.
Next, realize that the GE 45638 wiring is not the same as a standard 3-way wiring configuration. After you have your wires positively identified, you will need to look at the instructions and reconfigure the wiring to match the new switch. Note that with the GE switches, both the Line and the Load come from the master switch. The auxiliary switch uses only a traveler and a neutral to signal the master.
Attached are a couple diagrams that I think are a little clearer than the manufacturer’s.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:3, topic:184461”]Your assumptions about the existing switches are likely correct, but you should never assume and you should always positively identify each and every wire.
Next, realize that the GE 45638 wiring is not the same as a standard 3-way wiring configuration. After you have your wires positively identified, you will need to look at the instructions and reconfigure the wiring to match the new switch. Note that with the GE switches, both the Line and the Load come from the master switch. The auxiliary switch uses only a traveler and a neutral to signal the master.
Attached are a couple diagrams that I think are a little clearer than the manufacturer’s.[/quote]
Makes perfect sense. I just wasn’t sure that capping a line in both boxes was the right thing to do but this picture illustrates that is indeed how it needs to be handled. Thanks for the post.
Don’t mean to pile on, but here goes anyway. ;D When I faced an existing 4-way lighting situation (3 light switches and one load) that I wanted to add to my Vera Lite, I bought the GE Kit for a 3-way setup plus one extra 45610 auxiliary switch. Then I started testing each existing switch - family room, bedroom, and kitchen.
As I worked through the wiring with a volt meter, I began to sketch out how the wiring was installed. See the left side of the attachment - you’ll note voltages written down next to switch positions. I was surprised to find that the line voltage fed the switch in the family room, while the load (outdoor spot lights) was wired to the switch in the kitchen, with the the 4-way switch (family room) in between. The GE 45609 needs to be placed at the load location, so I started there in making a second sketch for how to install the GE switches (see the right side of the attachment.) For simplicity, I did not show the ground wires, but I used them in the final installation.
The GE z-wave switches have been operating flawlessly for 18 months. I use PLEG to control the lights, and never touch the actual switches. Cheers.
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