Am I safe to assume that the swtich on the right of the diagram is the Line switch (from location persepctive, this is at the top of the stairs) and the one on the left of the diagram is the Load Switch (from a location prespective, at the bottom of the stairs). Or do I have that backwards? Since the light is physically located at the top of the steps, it seems to be counter-intuitive.
The switch at the top of the steps has a three wire pair and a two wire pair; the one at the bottom only has a three wire pair. Both switches only control 1 light.
I do have a multimeter, and can verify if guided on what to look for.
There is no “line switch” in that circuit. More importantly, there are no Neutrals at the switches. The diagram you posted is a “switch loop” where the Line and Neutral comes into the light fixture, rather than the switch. You cannot use the GE/Jasco switches in this type of circuit, unless you run an additional cable.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:3, topic:186516”]There is no “line switch” in that circuit. More importantly, there are no Neutrals at the switches. The diagram you posted is a “switch loop” where the Line and Neutral comes into the light fixture, rather than the switch. You cannot use the GE/Jasco switches in this type of circuit, unless you run an additional cable.
thanks i was afraid of that. Can you elaborate on running a new wire? I got the dimmer and add-on for less than the price of the dimmer alone… so would love to somehow use it. my house does not have any other three-way switches where I can utilize this.
It might be possible for me to run another wire to the box at the “top” of the steps. The one at the bottom, probably not.
You would need to run a standard two-conductor electrical cable from the light fixture to one or the other of the two existing light switch locations, for the purpose of bringing the required “line” and “neutral” wires to that switch. That new cable, along with the existing cabling, would allow you to use the master/slave switches you have already purchased.
You would need to run a standard two-conductor electrical cable from the light fixture to one or the other of the two existing light switch locations, for the purpose of bringing the required “line” and “neutral” wires to that switch. That new cable, along with the existing cabling, would allow you to use the master/slave switches you have already purchased.[/quote]
Thanks - I’m going to mark this for when I can get help. To be clear, this line must come from the light fixture, right? it can’t be from a nearby outlet or swtich?
Also - the add-on switch will go to the box that has three wires, where 1 of those wires will get capped off; the master goes to the other box, using line, load, neutral and traveller?
The cable bringing a “line” and a “neutral” wire can come from any other nearby outlet. However (1) if that nearby outlet is connected to a different circuit breaker you need to make sure this won’t overload its breaker and (2) the existing “line” and “neutral” that are coming into electrical box the light is currently wired into will no longer be necessary and must be capped off.
Yes - if you bring the new cable to the “right side” box in your diagram, that is how it would be wired.
Alternatively - if you bring the new cable to the “left side” box in your diagram, rather than capping off the black wire, you could use that spare black wire to extend the “line” conductor to the master switch in the “right side” box.
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