I’m considering purchase of the US version of the Aeotec Home Energy Meter G2. A have a couple of questions that I hope someone can help with…
[ul][li]All of the pictures of the G2 version of the HEM have shown two bare wires for power. I read a message somewhere (can’t find it again) that said the US G2 version has a standard 110V plug. Would an owner be able to clarify how this unit gets power?[/li]
[li]Does this actually fit in a breaker box? If not, how have you mounted the HEM?[/li][/ul]
Mine is powered thru a mini usb port on the bottom of the device, and an included adapter (wall wart), which I have plugged into an outlet next to the breaker box. In my case there was sufficient room inside the breaker box to lay the device on the bottom and pass the power connector behind the panel cover, but I prefer to have it mounted to the drywall next to the box, passing the clamp wires out instead.
I’m in a four unit townhouse (built in 2010) so anything I do would have to be to code. I’m thinking I’m going to need to run conduit from one of the side knockouts and run the clamp wires through that (but I don’t really know).
Are you sure your utility doesn’t support monitoring devices like the Eagle Gateway? These need no physical connection to the meter making it a lot easier to install.
[quote=“poohbah, post:4, topic:183259”]Are you sure your utility doesn’t support monitoring devices like the Eagle Gateway? These need no physical connection to the meter making it a lot easier to install.
The G1 unit has the USB power plug and supply. The G2 unit has the bare 2-conductor wire that gets wired into 120V. (I have both models)
For a temporary setup on mine I just attached a 2-prong plug to the bare wire and plugged it into an outlet nearby the breaker panel. Ultimately I’ll hardwire the unit inside the panel.
[quote=“4Crawler, post:6, topic:183259”]The G1 unit has the USB power plug and supply. The G2 unit has the bare 2-conductor wire that gets wired into 120V. (I have both models)
For a temporary setup on mine I just attached a 2-prong plug to the bare wire and plugged it into an outlet nearby the breaker panel. Ultimately I’ll hardwire the unit inside the panel.[/quote]
Do you have a pretty standard breaker box? How “deep” is your G2?
It’s a mid-50s vintage 100A GE outdoor panel. The G2 seems to be around 1.5" deep, the G1 looks thinner, maybe 1.25".
I have not test fit the unit inside the panel yet as I need to move some breakers around and clean up some issues in there before i get to that. I’ll probably at least test it inside to see what the connectivity is like. Sitting outside, it seems to be communicating well with my Vera Lite.
[quote=“4Crawler, post:6, topic:183259”]The G1 unit has the USB power plug and supply. The G2 unit has the bare 2-conductor wire that gets wired into 120V. (I have both models)
For a temporary setup on mine I just attached a 2-prong plug to the bare wire and plugged it into an outlet nearby the breaker panel. Ultimately I’ll hardwire the unit inside the panel.[/quote]
I ordered mine from Amazon and received it yesterday. What I received is a G2 but there are no bare wires. The power plug terminates with a polarized 110V plug. So I guess I have a couple of choices…
I can plug the HEM into a wall outlet and run the induction clamps from the HEM to inside the breaker box.
I can cut off the plug and put the entire unit in the breaker box (wiring the power into a breaker).
If I put it in the breaker box, the range reduction concerns me…it seems wiser to put it outside the box.
Are there any suggestions on what I need to do code-wise to run the induction clamps from inside to outside the box? Do I just need to install a coupling in one of the side knockouts or do I need full conduit from the knockout to where the HEM is?
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