I have searched this forum a lot (using the forum’s search and the google site: search) and haven’t found an exact answer. I know people hate to see repeated questions, so I’ll just apologize in advance.
I have a house built in the early 60s, so have had to deal with no neutrals in a lot of spots. Thanks to this site I’ve replaced several switches successfully. I’m not an electrician but have done a fair bit of wiring, so i feel reasonably comfortable but I want to get opinions on this next project.
The wiring is like #4 at the link below. Power goes to the fixture and then to each switch. The switches each have two wires labeled as parallel (1 and 2). I assume these are travelers like the red and taped wires in the diagram. In one of the boxes I do have access to a neutral I can tie into which is on the same circuit.
Fatal error. Never assume. Always positively identify all wires.
In one of the boxes I do have access to a neutral I can tie into which is on the same circuit.
This seems a bit unusual, based on on what you've said so far, but it is possible.
The Levitons that you linked to will work in this wiring configuration. If you look at the diagram below, you would use your taped white as the diagram’s Yl/Rd wire. Note that this is not suitable for LED bulbs.
If you do in fact have a neutral in the switch’s gang box, as you described, then you can use the other Leviton wiring scheme and LED bulbs will work.
Fatal error. Never assume. Always positively identify all wires.
In one of the boxes I do have access to a neutral I can tie into which is on the same circuit.
This seems a bit unusual, based on on what you've said so far, but it is possible.
The Levitons that you linked to will work in this wiring configuration. If you look at the diagram below, you would use your taped white as the diagram’s Yl/Rd wire. Note that this is not suitable for LED bulbs.
If you do in fact have a neutral in the switch’s gang box, as you described, then you can use the other Leviton wiring scheme and LED bulbs will work.[/quote]
Thanks. I hoped you would respond. I will definitely confirm the wires before I order. I’ve been in both switch gangs to look at the wires but the fixture junction is difficult to get to, so I haven’t verified everything just yet. It’s in a tight spot in the attic. I can see with a flashlight what appears to be happening but not confirmed yet.
Only one of the gangs has a neutral available. It’s from another switch in the gang that is just tied off. It appears from the images I would need a neutral at both switches. Is that correct or am I misunderstanding?
The switches control a 4-bulb set of track lights that use R20 mini floods. I would like the option of using LEDs in the future but it’s not critical I suppose. I thought based on what I’ve read that as long as the LEDs combined for a high enough wattage amount they would work with the Leviton dimmers. Wonder what makes that one matching switch not work with LEDs?